Rouen, the capital of Normandy, is one of the richest and surely the most complete destination in a tour through the region of Northern France.
An intricate history, extensive artistic and architectural heritage, lots of half-timbered houses, breathtaking Gothic churches and some exquisite examples of Renaissance style - Rouen has definitely all you need to fully enjoy and understand this beautiful region. Its city center, the Vieux Rouen (Old Rouen) represents its beating heart and through this guide we will try to discover all its gems!
In this article:
Rouen Old Town: Info, Itinerary & Map
Rouen Old Town: Attractions - Religious Buildings
Rouen Old Town: Attractions - Civic Buildings
Rouen Old Town: Attractions - Streets and Squares
Rouen Old Town: Attractions - Museums
Rouen Old Town: Info, Itinerary & Map
INTRODUCTION AND HOW TO REACH
Rouen is the beautiful capital of Normandy, a region in Northern France where history has always slipped from the canon. Gallo-Roman, then Norman, English and eventually French, Rouen today looks integrated into the vibes of France and yet its historical city center hides many surprises!
Gothic churches, Renaissance palaces, half-timbered houses - if you are looking for a good dose of art and history while traveling through Normandy, Rouen with its amazing city center is probably your best destination!
Reaching the heart of Rouen is easy and there are several ways to do so. Of course, you may decide what suits you best but here I will use Le Gros-Horloge, the starting point for our itinerary, as a reference.
➊ By train: if you are coming from a different city, the Gare du Rouen (Rouen Railway Station) is just 15 minutes from the city center on foot. Rouen can be easily reached from any other part of Normandy and from Paris (it's 1h30 and costs 17-25€). You can buy your tickets on SNFC official website.
➊ By bus/metro: many parts of the city center are for pedestrians only, but there are several metro stations and bus/tram stops around. For Le Gros-Horloge, get off at Palais de Justice or Théâtre des Arts metro stations, then it's a 5-minute walk. If you opt for a bus/tram, the closest stops (5 min) are Théâtre des Arts and Cathédrale (lines T1, T2, T3).
➊ By car: you can't drive your car all the way to Le Gros-Horloge since it's an LTZ zone! Unfortunately, most parking lots around the historical center aren't free. You can park your car in one of the many parking areas (Cathédral, Pucelle, Hôtel de Ville) or move towards Rue Poret de Blosseville to find free spots. From there, it's a 20-minute walk to your destination.
USEFUL INFO AND MOST COMMON QUESTIONS
➊ What is the best way to visit Rouen's city center? Definitely on foot! Everything is easily reachable with a 10-minute walk and even the further destinations are less than 1km/0,62mi apart. If you come from the railway station you will naturally reach the city center in a few minutes, whereas if you come from another place or you are staying on the other bank of the Seine, you can get to a nearby bus/metro stop and then walk your tour away!
➊ When is the best moment to visit Rouen? I was there in summer when the weather is warm but never hot in Normandy. June-August are probably the perfect months to be in Rouen and stroll around its city center. Otherwise, spring and early fall are also very enjoyable.
➊ How much time should you spend visiting the city center of Rouen? The city center di per se (streets, shops, architecture - walking without visiting) can be seen in a few hours, however, many of the landmarks deserve a more comprehensive experience! I would suggest keeping no less than 1 day for Rouen, preferably a weekend.
➊ Is the city center of Rouen accessible or easily visitable with kids? Yes, the streets are mainly plain and easy to walk through, and wheelchairs can access them. This is also true for most of the attractions mentioned in this guide, with a few exceptions (such as Le Gros-Horloge).
➊ Is there any attraction/museum you should book in advance? No, major landmarks such as the cathedral are free entry and freely accessible. Every other site will likely be not too crowded (the crowds you will probably find wandering around the streets!).
INTERACTIVE MAP AND WALKING TOUR ITINERARY
Within the relatively small area covered by Rouen's city center hide tons of amazing spots to check out, including churches, abbeys, palaces, memorials, fountains, and museums. Of course, a good tour of the historic center would not be complete without a careful exploration of the infinite traditional half-timbered houses scattered all around!
Considering the number of high-quality sites to see, I created an interactive map that you can use to find your own best way through the city center, even though I will also suggest you a possible itinerary.
Click on the button on the left top corner to find the expandable list with all the places I included, divided into the same sections I will use here.
Suggested Itinerary
● Duration: 4-5 hours (no visits) or at least 1 day (with visits)
● Starting/Ending Point: Le Gros-Horloge
1. Start from Le Gros-Horloge (visit it if you like) and walk through and around Rue du Gros Horloge until you reach Place de la Cathédrale with the Bureau des Finances and, of course, Notre-Dame, the beautiful Gothic landmark of Rouen. Don't forget to check the Cour d'Albane! ➜ Keep 1-2 hours for these stops.
2. Once you are done with the cathedral, take the street on the left (Rue Saint-Romain) where you will find the Historial Saint-Jeanne d'Arc. The street ends right in front of Saint-Maclou, another unmissable religious building. Take your time to visit it, then check the nearby Aitre Saint Maclou to discover more about urban life in the past. ➜ All this should take you 1 to 2 hours.
3. Time for a few half-timbered houses! The best streets around are Rue Martainville (where Aitre Saint-Maclou is located), Rue Saint-Amand and Rue Damiette. End your stroll in Rue d'Amiens - from there, you can take Rue Eau du Robec and check Saint-Vivien Church or go straight ahead until you see the imponent Abbey Church of Saint-Ouen with the Hotel de Ville.
➜ Expect to spend 1 hour exploring this area.
4. From Saint-Ouen, look for Place de la Rougemare and explore the streets all around. From there, you can either proceed north or south - in both cases, take Rue Beauvoisine. If you go north, you can visit the Musée des Antiquites; if you go south, you will find Musée Le Secq des Tournelles, Saint-Godard Church and the Museum of Fine Arts all within a few-square-meter area!
➜ Depending on what you decide to visit, this may take you 1 to 4 hours.
5. Let's check a few more half-timbered houses before we head to the main square. If you are done with the Museum of Fine Arts you should be in Place Verdrel. From there, you can check the nearby Church of Saint-Patrice, then move south (take Rue Jeanne d'Arc). Explore the little streets (Rue des Bons Enfants, Rue Ganterie, etc) then end your stroll on Place du Vieux Marché.
➜ Keep at least half an hour for this walk.
6. Last section of this itinerary: explore the most important square in Rouen, Place de Vieux Marché. Check the ancient ruins, the Church of Saint Joan of Arc and notice the urban plan while here. When you are done, you can visit the Maison Pierre Corneille nearby or move to Place de la Pucelle where you can check the majestic architecture of Hotel de Bourgtheroulde.
➜ Be prepared to spend a couple of hours for these stops.
● If you follow this itinerary, you will be sure not to miss any of the main cultural attractions in Rouen! Of course, there is much more to see and do (food, shops, other experiences), and this is why I would definitely suggest spending at least a weekend in Rouen if you wanna see it all.
Rouen Old Town: Attractions - Religious Buildings
CATHÉDRALE NOTRE-DAME
● Address: Place de la Cathédrale
● Opening Hours: mostly 9AM to 6PM (click here for more details)
● Ticket: Free
Every cultural guide to Rouen should start with its amazing cathedral - a Gothic gem, it has inspired believers and artists over the centuries (including Monet), making it one of the highest examples of French medieval architecture.
The cathedral was first built in the 4th century CE but later remade several times - once in Romanesque style (11th century), then in Gothic during the early 13th century.
Forever the protagonist of devastations and attacks, throughout its history the cathedral suffered Viking invasions, Huguenots' violence, the French Revolution devastation and, lastly, the 1944 bombings. And yet, it kept its magnificence strong and visible and today welcomes visitors with its mesmerizing game of lights, bright stone structure, precious stained glass windows and historically significant burials of dukes, kings and nobles from both England and France.
Mentioning all its treasures here would not be possible, but there is a dedicated post you can check:
➊ READ NEXT: the complete guide to Notre-Dame Cathedral in Rouen
➊ READ NEXT: Normandy in Pictures: a Region in Ten Shots
SAINT-MACLOU
● Address: Place Barthélémy, 7
● Opening Hours: Mon-Sat 10AM-12PM and 2-5PM / Sundays closed
● Ticket: Free
Saint-Maclou is such an exquisite Flamboyant Gothic building that if it wasn't for the nearby cathedral it would probably stand out in the city as the most beautiful. Indeed, it may remind you of Notre-Dame as they share the same architectural style.
You may have rarely heard of St. Maclou and, in fact, he is strongly linked to Northern France. Sometimes called St. Malo (like the town) or Maclovius, he is said to have lived during the late 6th century CE and died in 627. He is known as one of the Seven Holy Founders of Brittany, a group of Welsh/Cornish missionaries who came from their homeland to bring the Christian religion to the French area and found the first communities (their whole existence could be an invention meant to give the area a legendary origin - this would be only one of the many examples of this kind for the epoch, when documentation was scarce if not absent).
The church was born as a small chapel but it soon acquired an increasing importance due to its prominent location. Considering its closeness to the cathedral, which was destined for solemn occasions and important guests, St. Maclou soon became the reference point for the inhabitants of this central area of the city. It was destroyed and rebuilt several times until it acquired its current form during the 15th century. At that point, the church was so prominent that it needed to keep up with the standard of the area.
It was designed following both Norman and Parisian fashions by architect Pierre Robin and built from 1432 until after 1521 (year of its new consecration, when it must have been nearly finished) with the aid of the citizenry, who donated great sums for its construction. Not everything we see today comes from the 15th/16th century though: the current spire was built in the years 1868-71 and the whole church was so damaged during the 1944 bombings that it needed an extensive renovation.
What to check at Saint-Maclou
➊ ARCHITECTURE AND EXTERIOR: As you can see, Saint-Maclou lies in a small square surrounded by half-timbered houses and it's clear that it always had to deal with a lack of space, which resulted in a centered plan arranged in a semi-circle with a lantern tower with its spire.
● The main façade (on Place Barthélémy) is characterized by a triumph of Gothic tracery stone decorations, a rose window on the upper side and a huge porch that encloses three main portals. Two of them are Renaissance wooden works (mid-16th century) of fine quality and possibly by the renowned artist Jean Goujon (1510-1567). They show scenes from the New and Old Testament and the Parable of the Good Shepherd, one you will often find in Rouen because part of the city's symbol. The tympanum presents a large scene depicting the Last Judgement and on the left corner of the porch is a fountain, with a group of two headless statues on top.
➊ INTERIOR: The interior is highly illuminated, as typical of Flamboyant Gothic buildings. This is achieved through high-rise windows and minimal bright-stoned structure. Wall decorations are therefore scarce.
● There is one vaulted central nave flanked by side chapels rather than lateral naves and together they open on a transept (transversal area that forms a cross), which is also the highest point of the church and corresponds to the lantern tower we have seen from the outside. The transept hosts a massive wooden cross. Behind the transept is the ambulatory (area behind the altar), which opens on four chapels.
● Notice the staircase: built in Flamboyant style, it was once part of the rood screen that used to close the most sacred area of the church to regular visitors and today brings to the organ. The organ itself was made in the 1520s.
● The stained-glass windows are among the best examples of 15th-century glasswork in France and were spared destruction because in 1940 they were preemptively removed. Look for the representation of the Tree of Jess (over the portal on your left if facing the wooden cross): it's the most significant of all.
ABBATIALE SAINT-OUEN
● Address: Place du Général de Gaulle
● Opening Hours: Tue-Sun 10AM-12PM and 2-5PM / Mondays closed
● Ticket: Free
● Important Note: restoration works are going on at Saint-Ouen that may hamper your visit. They are scheduled to be completed in 2024.
Here we are, in front of yet another impressive example of Flamboyant Gothic in Rouen! The origins of this one are remote but the current building is partially recent, and this is why it is sometimes overlooked today.
The name Saint-Ouen comes from Ouen (or Dadon), a primitive bishop of Rouen buried in the surroundings of the abbey church in 684 CE. Due to the presence of his burial, an abbey with a first version of the church was soon built, however ransacked by the Vikings in 841. The Viking Rollo, first Duke of Normandy, would re-establish the religious institution in 918, but it was only with one of his successors, William the Conqueror (1028-1087), that the complex saw a new light.
Subsequently rebuilt in Romanesque style, Saint-Ouen was repeatedly destroyed by fires (the last one in 1318), leading to the construction of a Gothic version. However, works on the abbey church and the monastery did not proceed simultaneously and while the first had to wait a long time to be completed (the central nave was ready in 1537 while the main façade was ultimately done in the 1800s), the latter took much less but was already in bad shape during the 18th century and eventually mostly demolished in the early 19th, when the complex ceased to be a monastery.
What remained of the buildings occupied by the monks was restored and later became the town hall (Hôtel de Ville) that you can still see today.
What to check at Saint-Ouen
➊ ARCHITECTURE AND EXTERIOR: the structure of the abbey church is typical of Flamboyant Gothic buildings of this kind, with an intricate façade flanked by two towers with spires on top. The church, cross-shaped, has three main portals with massive tympanums. Visible is also an 88-meter high lantern tower, called "the Crown of Normandy" - it stands in the transept area, that hosting the high altar. It opens on a rather unassuming modern square.
● The main façade is neo-Gothic, meaning that it was built to resemble the original medieval style. Construction took place between 1845-52. However, parts of the original spired towers (16th century) remained at base level and the rose window is also partially original. The three main portals, modern works, present figures from the Old and New Testament and, in particular, the central one has a pillar with the image of Christ, flanked by sculptures of the Apostles.
● On the south portal (so on your right if facing the main one) is the Portail des Marmousets (Grotesques' Portal), a work of the 15th century, called this way for its decorations, which show scenes from the life of St. Ouen. Entrance normally happens from here.
➊ INTERIOR: the church is huge, 134m/440ft long and 30+m/98+ft high (with a peak of 82m/270ft in the transept area, where there is the lantern tower). It has one central nave and two laterals with no side chapels.
● The central nave is intensely illuminated, as typical of Gothic churches, vaulted and almost without decorations. The illumination reaches a peak in the transept (transversal) area, the highest point in the church.
● The most significant part of Saint-Ouen lies behind the main altar, in the choir and ambulatory: here, several portions of the 12/13th century Romanesque apse remain, along with eleven Gothic chapels. The choir is still divided by a rood screen built in the 18th century.
● The windows are entirely covered by stained-glass works, largely intact and made during the 14th and 15th centuries. The windows of the main nave and laterals show Prophets, Sybils and figures from the Bible. Those of the chapels opening up behind the high altar depict scenes from the life of St. Ouen and other bishops of Rouen.
ÉGLISE SAINTE-JEANNE-D'ARC
● Address: Place du Vieux Marché
● Opening Hours: open daily 10AM-12PM and 2-6PM / Fridays 2-6PM only
● Ticket: Free
● Important Note: opening hours are a bit irregular and might not correspond to what shared above. My suggestion is to go there not too close to possible closing times.
The Church of St. Joan of Arc is a modern structure located in the main square of Rouen, Place du Vieux Marché. The church occupies the central portion of the square and is literally impossible to miss if there: its peculiar shape and dark tones will not slip away from your eyes. Honestly, it didn't excite me when I saw it.
The church's history is not ancient, especially if compared with other landmarks in town, but its location is unique: it lies right where St. Joan of Arc was burned alive at the stake on May 30th, 1431 (and this easily explains its dedication). The saint is renowned as one of the patrons of France and revered across the whole country - it's no surprise that the spot of her martyrdom was to be highlighted.
In this ancient square was another church, Saint-Sauveur, destroyed in 1794 (and still visible in the ruins around Sainte-Jeanne), while the exact location where the young saint died has not been precisely identified since very recent times: the 1970s, when the square was being redesigned after the 1944 bombings and excavations for the current church began. Today, a plaque in the grass signals it to visitors.
● The church was created following a project by architect Louis Arretche (1905-1991) in 1979 and it immediately sparked controversy, as it was not in line with Rouen's medieval and Gothic traditional style and was said to be disrupting the urban harmony. Its elongated shape is meant to recall a Viking ship, in memory of Rouen's adventurous past, or a flame, reminiscent of Joan's tragic destiny.
● The interior looks (slightly) better than the exterior and shares some characteristics with Gothic churches: intensely illuminated, the church has its walls all covered in stained-glass windows, 13 in total. These precious glassworks come from the former church of Saint-Vincent, destroyed during the 1944 bombings and originally located nearby. They date back to the 16th century and present scenes of Christ's life, then St. Peter, St. Anne and other saints.
● The church has no naves but is circular, more similar to a theatre than a religious building, thus reflecting a modified concept of spirituality typical of modern times.
TEMPLE SAINT-ÉLOI
● Address: Place Martin Luther King
● Opening Hours: Sundays 10:30AM-12PM / Mon-Sat closed
● Ticket: Free (fees may be charged in case of events)
● Important Note: opening hours are extremely restricted but the church is actually open on several other occasions when it hosts concerts and events. Check here for more details.
The Temple of Saint-Éloi is yet another example of Gothic architecture in Rouen, as the materials used and the architecture betray.
As you may guess from the name of its hosting square, the Temple is the reference point for Protestantism in Rouen, a city that suffered a great deal from the violence perpetuated by and against the Huguenots (early Protestants of France) in the 16th century. It was built during the 13th century and remained a minor Catholic center until the French Revolution.
The Revolutionaries decided to drastically decrease the number of churches in the country and cease the activities of thousands of monasteries all around - thus, in 1791 the Temple stopped functioning. Be
tween 1791 and 1803 it would be used for several non-religious purposes and in 1803 eventually assigned to the Protestant community of Rouen. It was harshly bombed in 1944 but survived. Recently, traces of a medieval cemetery (so pre-Protestantism) were found near the church.
● The Temple is not excellently kept and you may notice a few signs of time on its exterior structure. However, it is worth a look and, if possible, a quick visit inside, where you will find a typical illuminated and minimally decorated vaulted building.
● Today, Saint-Éloi is often chosen as location for concerts and events thanks to its perfect acoustic.
SAINT-GODARD
● Address: Place Saint-Godard
● Opening Hours: Sundays 9-10AM / Mon-Sat closed
● Ticket: Free (fees may be charged in case of events)
● Important Note: the church is rarely open but may be accessed on several occasions when it hosts concerts and events. Check here for more details.
At a few steps distance from the Musée Le Secq de Tournelles and Musée de Beaux-Arts lies the beautiful little church of Saint-Godard, a small Gothic gem often closed to visitors but worth a check.
The church takes its name from a primitive bishop of Rouen, Godard, who was buried here after his death in c. 524 CE. Today, his remains are in the cathedral.
Often destroyed and rebuilt as common for medieval centuries, the church was built in the current late-Gothic form in 15th/16th century and used mainly by the inhabitants of the area around the Rouen Castle, of which today only the Joan of Arc Tower remains. Signs of this are still visible in the coat of arms sculpted on the exterior, symbols of the families that acted as keepers of the castle.
● Externally, Saint-Godard appears as a late-Gothic church with a non-spired bell tower and traditionally-French blue roofs.
● On the inside, it has three naves of the same height but different length (the central is longer). They are vaulted and divided by a series of columns, the central ceiling hosts a wooden cradle. The bright illumination is achieved through the typical cycle of stained-glass windows, which in this case are 16th and 19th century works. Among the most ancient, notice the one depicting the 1506 Tree of Jesse (a representation of Jesus's ancestors, starting from the Old Testament). Other representations are: Biblical scenes, the Virgin Mary and modern life views.
➜ During winter, Saint-Godard usually hosts a light projection of the works of Italian medieval painter Giotto, which are replicated on the walls. This normally lasts from Christmas time until early February.
SAINT-VIVIEN
● Address: Place Saint-Vivien
● Opening Hours: it should be open daily but I couldn't find specific details. Do you have any? Let me know!
● Ticket: Free
Saint-Vivien is yet another church in Rouen which dedication is not immediately clear: St. Vivien is a bishop from Aquitane who lived during the 5th century CE and whose relics were brought to Rouen during the 15th century, thus triggering the dedication.
Saint-Vivien is surely not the most spectacular view in Rouen, but if you are exploring the Saint-Ouen area you may consider giving it a quick look!
The origins of a religious building on-site might be remote, but the current church was built during the 14th century and then repeatedly modified and enlarged over time, resulting in the peculiar shape we see today. Saint-Vivien was probably founded by the nearby Abbey of Saint-Ouen to function as its subsidiary and therefore it never really had a precise architectural project - for us, this means that today we can admire different styles and influences.
● The exterior looks Gothic, although its form is not canonical: this is because Saint-Vivien was expanded over time and also often damaged by human or natural calamities.
● The interior bears some of the characteristics of Flamboyant Gothic (high vaulted naves, minimal decorations, stained-glass windows, etc), although the typical degree of illumination here is partially lost due to the numerous changes and modifications to the structure. When inside, notice the hall-church design (meaning that all naves are of the same height), the recent but beautiful cycle of stained-glass windows showing the life of St. Vivien (1800s), and the several Baroque additions, including the stunning marble group of the Agony of Jesus (1690) by Jacques Millet-Desruisseaux - you can find it in the choir (behind the main altar).
SAINT-PATRICE
● Address: Rue Abbé Cochet, 1
● Opening Hours: the church is open daily at regular times but masses are being held frequently during the day - access may be limited at these times
● Ticket: Free
Saint-Patrice, dedicated to the saint patron of Ireland St. Patrick, marks the end of our itinerary through Rouen's religious buildings.
Medium-sized, this church bears the most resemblances to Saint-Godard and Saint-Vivien, underscoring the common role of parish churches destined for local churchgoers. What we see today is as usual the fruit of centuries of destructions and reconstructions, leading to a Flamboyant Gothic-looking church with several later addictions. Indeed, Saint-Patrice was rebuilt during the 16th century after a fire devastated the medieval version but was soon damaged by the Huguenots.
● The exterior is not too accommodating: it would definitely use some polishing and it shows the signs of a heavy modern restoration (1800s), which is clearly visible on the tympanum (part above the main portal) in the façade. The overall appearance is Gothic with a low bell tower.
● The interior is what should really have your attention: besides the classical bright illumination and vaulted three-nave structure, here the real protagonists are the amazing stained-glass windows, which cover the entire wall surface of the church. They were mostly made during the 15th/16th century to decorate a former version of the building, while a few others were created in the 17th century for this current one and only very few later, in the 19th/20th century. Even the famous French glass designer Max Ingrand (1908-1969) contributed to them.
➜ The long cycle of stained-glass windows shows scenes from the life of Christ, of St. Barbara, St. Patrick along with several other Biblical events. Check The Eucharist window to see a work of Ingrand.
➊ Interestingly, Saint-Patrice today is the seat of the Institut du Christ-Roi Souverain Prêtre, a traditionalist religious institution that aims to perform masses and other liturgical functions in Latin. Check the masses timetable on their website in case you wish to try this experience!
➊ Would you like to have a dedicated page for one or more of the buildings mentioned here? Let me know in the comments below or write me!
Rouen Old Town: Attractions - Civic Buildings
LE GROS-HORLOGE
● Address: Rue du Gros-Horloge
● Opening Hours: April-October: 10AM-1PM and 2-7PM / November-March: 2-6PM
● Ticket: Yes (full price: 7,50€), free to see from the outside
The Gros-Horloge (big clock), together with Notre-Dame cathedral, is probably the most representative monument of Rouen. It stands on a passageway, a position it has occupied since faraway times.
This massive clock with its belfry and arch today substitutes the so-called Porte Massacre, a gate that had been there since Gallo-Roman times and that took its denomination from the old custom of having butchers gathered around here when the city was smaller (check also the nearby pretty Rue Massacre).
The belfry is currently the oldest portion of the complex and originally included the Massacre Gate, fully destroyed in 1527-29 to make space for the new Renaissance arch. The belfry was built in late 14th century in Gothic style to replace an older version, dismantled in 1382 after Rouen lost its civic freedoms (the belfry showing the hour that punctuated the day of the people being their symbol, opposite to the cathedral, the religious one). The clock came in 1389, although today only the mechanisms remain, while the current version dates back to the 16th century, still making it one of the best examples of historical clocks in France.
The original spire of the belfry was remade in 1711, the clock was electrified in 1921 and several other interventions were needed over time, yet the complex is still excellently preserved and an unmissable site in your tour!
Description and What to check
● The belfry still shows signs of Flamboyant Gothic applied to a civic building, despite standing in between several architectural styles.
● The clock has a diameter of 2,50m/8,2ft and it's an exquisite Renaissance work. It has a single hand with the depiction of a Lamb (symbol of Rouen) to show the hour. Above it is an oculus to indicate the moon phases and below it is an opening showing the days of the week, each represented by a divinity from the Greek-Roman pantheon. It has two façades, both depicting a golden sun with its rays on a blue background.
● The Renaissance arch, a substitution of the Gallo-Roman Massacre Gate, actually bears some resemblance with ancient triumph gates. Go under it to admire the sculptures it holds: there on the vault, Christ is represented as the Good Shepherd with several lambs all around. On the sides are Latin inscriptions recalling the main scene: "PASTOR BONUS" (Good Shepherd), "ANIMAM SUAM PONIT PRO OVIBUS SUIS". The Lamb and the Good Shepherd are long-standing symbols of the city, and indeed right above the arch you should see the coat of arms of Rouen, with a Lamb on a red background.
➜ Le Gros-Horloge can be seen from outside and is very well enjoyable this way. However, in case you have time (entrance is limited to a few people at a time) and wish to see the clock and its mechanism from the inside, as well as have a full view of the city from above, you can check the Gros-Horloge Museum! All relevant information can be found here, see opening hours and prices above for basic info.
HÔTEL DE BOURGTHEROULDE
● Address: Place de la Pucelle, 15
● Opening Hours: private building, courtayard accessible
● Ticket: Free entry to courtyard
● Important note: the Cour d'Honneur is currently undergoing renovation and access to the hotel is temporarily moved to a different side
In Place de la Pucelle, close to Place du Vieux-Marché and in one of the liveliest areas of the city lies Hôtel de Bourgtherould, a hôtel particulier (private mansion) that now hosts a luxury hotel.
Considering its current usage, it is of course possible to access the premises only if staying at the hotel, however, the exterior and the courtyard (Cour d'Honneur), which are also the most historically-significant parts of the building, can be seen by anyone and are worth a visit.
In fact, the Hôtel de Bourgtheroulde is a gem of early French Renaissance, otherwise called Louis XII Style because it corresponded to the reign of Louis XII (1495-1530 circa). It was commissioned by Guillaume II Le Roux, Lord of Bourgtheroulde, who wished to have a private mansion worthy of his family's rank.
Guillaume II began the construction in 1501 but it was his son Guillaume III who finished it after 1520. We are able to safely mention this year because the inner courtyard (accessible from Place de la Pucelle and also called Aumale Gallery from Aumale Abbey, where Guillaume III was abbot) presents a marble depiction of the Field of the Cloth of Gold, a legendary meeting between King of France Francis I and King of England Henry VIII that occurred in 1520. The bas-relief showing this scene is on the left side of the courtyard and the decision of representing it here denotes the importance that episode had for noble contemporaries.
● When in the courtayard, notice the long series of bas-reliefs, part of a rich decoration that is today sadly mostly lost due to time and 1944 bombings, which severely damaged the entire building. For this reason, the interior is also unfortunately all lost and today the hotel offers a modern stay to its visitors.
● Before you go, focus on the façade on Place de la Pucelle to have a perfect glance of the artistic style in between late-Gothic and early Renaissance.
BUREAU DES FINANCES
● Address: Place de la Cathédrale, 25
● Opening Hours: temporarily closed
● Ticket: No
● Important note: the Tourist Office, hosted in the Bureau des Finances, is currently closed for renovations (and should be until 2025). However, it's the outside of the palace that interests you.
We are in Place de la Cathédrale, best known for hosting the majestic Gothic gem Notre-Dame, cathedral of Rouen.
➊ In case you wish to know more about the square and its cathedral, you can check the complete guide to Notre-Dame of Rouen here!
The current Tourist Office, also known as Bureau des Finances (Finance Office) for the role it had in the past centuries, is the oldest surviving Renaissance building in Rouen (1509).
Designed by architect Rolland Le Roux (1465-1527), the Bureau was built in Louis XII Style, so early French Renaissance, and together with the Hôtel de Bourgtherould and Palais de Justice today represents the best examples of this style in Rouen. However, since the building frequently changed purpose and role over time, you may notice a few changes in style and even spot a few neo-classical features, thus coming from the 18th-19th century.
The reason why we can still admire it today while, as you may notice, the rest of the square looks much more recent, is because the Bureau was luckily spared during the 1944 bombings, that instead heavily hit the other buildings and the Cathedral itself.
HÔTEL DE VILLE
● Address: Place du Général de Gaulle, 2
● Opening Hours: Not open for tourist purposes but can be enjoyed from the outside
● Ticket: No
Do you remember Saint-Ouen Abbey? Well, the current Town Hall of Rouen (Hôtel de Ville) is hosted in what once was a part of the monastery of Saint-Ouen, dismissed after the French Revolution.
The Town Hall changed location several times over the centuries, mostly following the increasing importance of Rouen and the necessity to expand premises and resources. This one was chosen in 1800 when the monastery of Saint-Ouen had ceased functioning for years and its former rooms had to be either fully demolished or readapted.
However, this does not mean that what we see today corresponds to what the abbey used to be! The current building took this shape after the square around it was forcibly created by demolishing several abbey spaces and architect Charles-Felix Maillet du Boullay (1795-1878) intervened on it to make it fit the latest standards. It was also heavily damaged by a massive fire in 1926 and occupied by the Nazis from 1940.
PALAIS DE JUSTICE
● Address: Rue aux Juifs
● Opening Hours: Used for non-tourist purposes, easily admirable from the outside
● Ticket: No
Initially built to host a sort of Parliament of Normandy (although a parliament as we intend it today did not exist before very recent times), the Exchequer, this richly decorated building today is the seat of the local Courthouse (Palais de Justice) and is still operating.
Built mainly from 1499 to 1507, the Palais de Justice is an exquisite example of late-Gothic civic architecture, although it includes portions dating back to different epochs. Unfortunately, it was harshly bombed in 1944 and that event damaged much of the structure besides dispersing the majority of the interior decorations and furniture.
What to Check
As we said, the overall building is a late-Gothic, slightly early-Renaissance structure, built in bright stone with blue roofs and ornated with lavish tracery decoration. However, not all sides look the same.
● The most interesting part is that on Rue aux Juifs, which intricate decoration will surely catch your eye. This side is decisively Gothic, showing traditional features such as pinnacles, grotesque, gargoyles, etc. Erected from 1499, it is the oldest surviving side and the richest, so much as to be called Palais Royal (Royal Palace) and its courtyard Cour d'Honneur (Honor Court).
● On Rue Eugène Boudin (so on your right if on Rue aux Juifs facing the Palais) is the newest part of the Courthouse and looks neo-Gothic: it presents similar architectural features as in the Gothic part, but in this case what you see are replicas made in 1844.
AITRE DE SAINT-MACLOU
● Address: Rue Martainville, 186
● Opening Hours: open daily 9AM-7PM
● Ticket: Free entry
We have reached the last stop in our itinerary through Rouen's best civic buildings but what we have left is probably the most interesting of all sites on the list!
The Aître de Saint-Maclou, a former cemetery, takes its name from a Latin word, atrium, meaning courtyard, and is a reminder of what this place was born for: being the graveyard of the nearby Saint-Maclou, a beautiful Gothic gem we have already explored.
However, today the Aître does not flank the church but instead stands in its proximity. This is because, after being created in the 14th century, the graveyard immediately reached its full capacity due to the Black Death (1348-49), a terrible plague that hit Europe and decimated its population. From that moment, the Aître would continue expanding due to both successive diseases and the increasing population of Rouen. It was therefore soon moved to where it is now and new premises were continuously purchased to enlarge it until this was not possible anymore. At that point (it's the 16th century), it was decided galleries were to be built and placed on the original semi-courtyard structure - they were to become an ossuary and host the remains of long-dead citizens, while the newest arrivals were to be buried on the ground floor. This is why today we see multiple floors.
If you look closely, however, you will notice that not all galleries seem to come from the same epoch: the last side was addedin the 17th century was never used as a cemetery. Things were changing already and these kinds of burial sites were less and less popular in urban centres, so the new gallery was destined for didactical purposes and hosted a school for poor boys and girls managed by the parish of Saint-Maclou.
By the late 18th century, this place was not used as a cemetery anymore, urban graveyards having been prohibited. The Aître was fully turned into a school, then abandoned for a long period before coming back to life as a multi-purpose premise. All burials have been removed.
Description and What to Check
The Aître de Saint-Maclou is a large quadrilateral (32m wide x 48m long or 105ft wide x 157ft long).
● On three sides (16th-century galleries) the Aître consists of a stone base and an upper half-timbered structure interrupted by columns, sandpits and posts decorated with symbols of death such as bones, skeletons, and coffins. On the remaining side (17th century) the Aître has no stone base and is not decorated: this part was never used as a cemetery.
● The courtyard with its galleries today hosts several activities, including a Café and Restaurant (Café Hamlet), a patisserie (Gill's Pastries) a program for artists, and a demonstration center. You can find more information here on the official website.
➜ While exploring the place at some point you should encounter the remains of a black cat in a wooden shelf: the poor thing was found in the walls, probably put there to ward off the devil it itself was believed to incarnate.
➊ Would you like to have a dedicated page for one or more of the buildings mentioned here? Let me know in the comments below or write me!
Rouen Old Town: Attractions - Streets and Squares
All streets and iconic half-timbered houses in town are gathered within Vieux Rouen (Old Rouen), the most ancient portion of the city that was once included in the ramparts.
All places mentioned here have their location linked on their name or are anyway clearly linked. Everything mentioned here can be also found in the interactive map to Rouen city center I have prepared for this guide!
What is the best way to begin exploring the half-timbered streets of Vieux Rouen if not by starting from Rue du Gros-Horloge? It is the main artery of the city center, is reserved for pedestrian traffic and any diversion you can take from there will no doubt bring you to another amazing historic place!
Rue du Gros-Horloge connects you to both Notre-Dame Cathedral (you can't go wrong with this, from the big clock just go in the direction of the tall spire of the cathedral you should be able to see) and Place du Vieux-Marché (when under the clock, opt for the direction where you can see cars going, the square is divided from the street by a non-pedestrian avenue).
Explore the surroundings to find tons of half-timbered streets - the closest is the colorful Rue Massacre.
Place du Vieux-Marché is the main square in Rouen and its name tells us why: it means Old Market Square and this is where the major market of Rouen was held for eras.
Today, the square still hosts a covered market and is one of the liveliest places in town. With its typical semi-circular shape, it is partially surrounded by half-timbered houses (not necessarily ancient) with restaurants, cafés and several touristy shops, and by more modern-looking buildings. Architectural choices made here are honestly not always convincing but the result is an interesting presentation of the passages of time.
For the most culturally enriching experience, check the central area - you will spot an imposing modern church, some ancient ruins and a green area. The church is that of St. Joan of Arc, which we have already explored. The ancient ruins belong to Saint-Sauvert, a former church demolished in 1794. The green area is where you can spot a plaque (under a big tree) in memoriam of St. Joan of Arc, burned alive at the stake in that precise spot on May 30th, 1431. The place looks a bit messy but is worth a check.
Explore the surroundings to find Rue des Bons Enfants and several other historic streets.
Not far from Place du Vieux-Marché is Place de la Pucelle, a nice little welcoming square with half-timbered houses.
Its name, Young Girl Square, comes from a mistake: in the past, the exact place where St. Joan of Arc was burned alive was not known and for a long time the people of Rouen thought it to be here, thus the name (the Pucelle d'Orléans is Joan of Arc) and the long-standing presence of a fountain with a statue of the young saint, now no more.
If here, don't forget to explore the nearby streets and to check out the Hôtel de Bourgtheroulde (in the square) and the Temple Saint-Éloi.
THE BEST HALF-TIMBERED STREETS OF ROUEN
Vieux Rouen (Old Rouen) is renowned for the huge number of half-timbered streets it hosts and, if you have explored the landmarks and attractions we have mentioned so far you should have seen many.
Here is a quick overview of a few spots among the most interesting. In the interactive map above you can check everything we have covered here, with all streets marked with a green symbol.
Rue des Chanoines: a narrow, fully half-timbered little place in between a tunnel and a street. Nicely characteristic.
Rue Étoupée: narrow alley with half-timbered and Renaissance façades.
Rue Saint-Romain: one of the most stunning and ancient streets in Rouen, where houses still show clear traces of urban stratification.
Rue Damiette: breathtaking agglomerate of colorful half-timbered houses interrupted by historical landmarks.
➊ READ NEXT: Normandy in Pictures: a Region in Ten Shots
Rouen Old Town: Attractions - Museums
HISTORIAL JEANNE D'ARC
● Address: Rue Saint-Romain, 7
● Opening Hours: Tue-Sun 10AM-7PM / Mondays closed
● Tickets: Yes (full price: 11€), check the details here
● Content: Museum dedicated to the life and martyrdom of St. Joan of Arc
On the beautiful street of Saint-Romain, you can find the Historial Jeanne d'Arc, a recent museum that opened its doors in 2015 and is hosted in the former Archbishop Palace, at two steps distance from the cathedral.
The museum is arranged following contemporary methods and is an immersive experience thought to give all visitors the tools to understand the life and vicissitudes of one of the most famous figures of France, Joan of Arc. To help you there will be audioguides, videos, panels, projections and much more.
➜ The Historial is a highly educational museum and is the perfect place for kids or history buffs. In case you have little time to spend in Rouen, you may decide to focus on other attractions. The museum path is quite extensive, so be ready to spend 1-2 hours here.
MUSÉE DES BEAUX-ARTS DE ROUEN
● Address: Esplanade Marcel-Duchamp
● Opening Hours: open daily 10AM-6PM / Tuesdays closed
● Tickets: Free entry to permanent collection (check the details here)
● Content: Art collection (15th-19th centuries)
In an area of the city very crowded with amazing attractions you will find the Museum of Fine Arts, an absolute gem I would definitely suggest visiting!
The few words I can spend here are not enough to rightfully convey the beauty and artistic significance of the collection, and this is why I am planning to write a dedicated post for it. Anyway, the Museum is spread over two floors:
1st floor: Medieval Icons, Italian and European Renaissance, France in 17th, 18th and 19th centuries, Jacques-Emile Blanche, etc.
2nd floor: Impressionism, Thèodore Gèricault, France and Italy in 17th, 18th and 19th century, etc.
The highlights of the museum include works of Paolo Veronese, François Clouet, Pieter Rubens, Antoon Van Dyck, Caravaggio, Guercino, Nicolas Poussin, Élisabeth Vigée Le Brun, Jean-Honoré Fragonard, Jacques-Louis David, Jean-Auguste-Dominique Ingres, Théodore Géricault, Eugène Delacroix, Pierre-Auguste Renoir, Camille Pissarro, Eugène Carrière, Edgar Degas, Amedeo Modigliani, Marchel Duchamp, and many others. The Museum also exhibits one of the paintings from the Rouen Cathedral Series by Claude Monet, of which you can extensively read here.
➜ The Museum of Fine Arts is unmissable in my modest opinion, I visited it even though I only had one day to spend in the city. Since it's free, you may decide to focus only on a few sections in case you have little time (the Renaissance section is perhaps the least interesting). A complete visit may last 2+ hours. The Museum is enjoyable with kids, but please know that its spaces are pretty small.
MUSÉE LE SECQ DES TOURNELLES
● Address: Rue Jacques Villon, 2
● Opening Hours: open daily 2PM-6PM / Tuesdays closed
● Tickets: Free entry to permanent collection (check the details here)
● Content: Collection of wrought iron items in a former church
Just a few steps from the Museum of Fine Arts and Saint-Godard Church is this incredible place which I stumbled upon by chance but I did not regret visiting!
The Musée Le Secq des Tournelles hosts an impressive ironwork collection, with pieces ranging from the Gallo-Roman epoch until the early 20th century, making it a peculiar destination you will hardly find replicated elsewhere. Moreover, the experience is enriched by the unique location of the Museum, which lies in what was a church, Saint-Laurent, dating 15th/16th century.
The church was originally founded in 1024, then destroyed by a fire and rebuilt in several waves from 1440. It was eventually abolished in 1791 and used for other purposes, fact that greatly damaged its structure. By the end of the 19th century, some private figures threatened to demolish it to build a block of houses, but the city acquired it and it has been a museum ever since. From 1921 it hosts the Musée Le Secq des Tournelles.
The Museum itself was born from an idea of Henri Le Secq des Tournelles (1854-1925): a pioneer photographer, he embarked on the venture of photographing the monumental heritage of France, ending up discovering the incredible world of ironwork for non-military usage and collecting a large number of items, later organized by his son Jean-Louis-Henri and arranged in the museum you see today.
Nowadays, visitors can admire a super interesting collection of objects including keys, locks, gates, knockers, bells, utensils, tools, cutlery, signs, chests, and much more, and they can do so in a beautifully-arranged location.
➜ Visiting the museum can well take the form of a stroll in case you don't have much time or are not too fond of ironwork but is no doubt worth it! I spent 1 hour there but I could have spent more. Not sure if I would go with kids but I have seen many.
LES MUSÉES LITTERAIRES
● Address: Rue Lecat, 51 (Musée Flaubert) / Rue de la Pie, 4 (Musée Pierre Corneille)
● Opening Hours: Tue 10AM/12:30PM and Wed-Sat 2-6PM (Musée Flaubert) / Tue-Sun 2-6PM (Musée Pierre Corneille)
● Tickets: Free entry (for both)
● Content: Historic house museums dedicated to the memory of Pierre Corneille and Gustave Flaubert (this latter is also a museum of Medicine)
The nice half-timbered rue de la Pie and the residential rue Lecat host two historic house museums, part of an interesting project called Route des Maisons d'Écrivains (Writers' Houses Route) that gathers all house museums belonged to prominent French writers and authors in the Paris area and in Normandy.
Both museums are free and can give visitors access to the private life and overall work of Gustave Flaubert and Pierre Corneille. Pierre Corneille (1606-1684) was born in Rouen, in the very house today hosting the museum, and worked at the Parliament of Normandy (Palais de Justice) as a lawyer for a long time. However, he is best known for the masterworks he wrote as a tragedian, including Le Cid, his finest play. In turn, Gustave Flaubert (1821-1880) was a novelist, born in Rouen in the house we visit today. Among his works is the unforgettable masterpiece Madame Bovary.
Maison Pierre Corneille exhibits a good reconstruction of a 17th-century house and of the spaces that Corneille would have used. Musée Gustave Flaubert is not only dedicated to the memory of the gifted author but includes sections about the history of Medicine to replicate the environment in which the writer must have spent his childhood, being his father a surgeon. Also, the house has once been a hospital.
➜ In case you only have one day to spend in Rouen, you may decide to focus on other major landmarks, otherwise, if you have 2+ days or are into French literature these are places you cannot miss.
MUSÉE DES ANTIQUITÉS
● Address: Rue Beauvoisine, 198
● Opening Hours: Tue-Sat 1:30-5:30PM / Sun 2-6PM / Mondays closed
● Tickets: Free entry to permanent collection
● Content: Museum of France and Normandy from the Gallo-Roman epoch until 17th century
Located in a less central location on the outskirts of the city center, the Musée des Antiquités is basically a museum of the history of France and Normandy from the origins until Modern Era, plus a few artefacts from Egypt and the East.
Both the location (the former convent of Visitation Sainte-Marie, a 17th century structure) and the collections make this museum a great destination during your Rouen tour. The main sections are: Metal Ages, Gallo-Roman Era, Middle Ages, Oriental Antiquities, Egypt. It also includes some high-quality Renaissance tapestry and crafting works.
➜ If you have 2+ days to spend in Rouen you may consider visiting this museum, otherwise I think it should deserve at least 2 hours of your time and making that much room in one day is not easy. Good option for kids.
➊ READ NEXT: the complete guide to Notre-Dame Cathedral in Rouen
➊ READ NEXT: Normandy in Pictures: a Region in Ten Shots
References:
Leonie V. Hicks, Elma Brenner, Society and Culture in Medieval Rouen, Brepols, 2013.
Théodore Licquet, Rouen: Its History and Monuments, Hachette Livre, 2012.