Edinburgh's Royal Mile: Cultural Guide with Landmarks, Map & Walking Tour
- Martina
- Oct 23
- 35 min read
The Royal Mile is crowded and busy; it is a touristy and sometimes overpriced area, and yet, we cannot have enough of it any time we are in Edinburgh!
The Royal Mile is a visually-perfect example of what makes a heritage-rich Scottish city, with its strong traditions and quintessential architectural style.
In this guide, we will discover the Royal Mile's significance, its history, and the landmarks and attractions that make it unique in Edinburgh and in Scotland. Here, you will find an interactive map to help you navigate the many closes and wynds, a little vocabulary, a walking tour, and tons of useful information and tips!
In this article:
Royal Mile in Edinburgh: Overview
Royal Mile in Edinburgh: History & Walking Tour
Royal Mile in Edinburgh: Landmarks & Attractions by Area
Royal Mile in Edinburgh: What to Do
Royal Mile in Edinburgh: Overview
WHAT IS THE ROYAL MILE AND HOW TO GET THERE
The Royal Mile of Edinburgh is one of the most popular and attractive places for tourists in the city, and for many good reasons. As the name suggests, it comprises the area of a mile (more or less), and within that relatively small zone is the quintessential urban Scotland: Gothic vibes, darkish buildings with colorful additions, white windows, pubs, churches, and the occasional man with a kilt playing the cornamuse.
However, the Royal Mile wasn't built in a day, and it certainly wasn't originally built for tourists. Its history is long and rich, despite its current appearance being relatively new (I know, it doesn't seem so, but it is!).
The Royal Mile is actually a series of streets, of which the major is High Street, and it forms the heart of Edinburgh's Old Town:
Royal: This appellation comes from the Mile being the connector of two important and traditionally royal-owned residences in the past, Edinburgh Castle and Holyrood Palace.
Mile: The approximate distance between the Castle and the Palace is one mile, and thus, this is the approximate length of this area.
➜ The Royal Mile develops along a main road, which changes its name as you proceed: it starts as Castlehill, then becomes Lawnmarket, High Street, Canongate, and ends as Abbey Strand. Today, these "sections" are used to define the various areas of the Mile, and each comes with its major highlights. All around the main road are smaller, narrow alleys that contain most attractions.
How to Reach Edinburgh's Royal Mile
Reaching the Mile is a piece of cake once you are in Edinburgh! Normally, the starting point is Edinburgh Castle, so from there you can go through it all.
Here are a few suggestions for you to easily reach the area:
If you are walking through the Old Town, take the Castle Hill Esplanade as your reference point; it's where you enter the Castle to visit it. Look for it on Google Maps (click on the name), then start your tour of the Royal Mile from there. You will have to go down Castle Hill to begin.
If you need to reach the Old Town first, then opt for one of the many buses that will drop you off at Princes Street (click on the name to check the approx. location, then set Google Maps to reach that point). Once at Princes Street, head towards Castle Hill Esplanade.
If you are staying outside Edinburgh and planning a day trip, the railway station you are likely to reach is Waverley. Once there, you are minutes away from the Royal Mile, but you may not be able to see it all if you start from there. Exit on Market Street, then walk towards South Bridge to reach High Street (on the Mile); from there, you'll be able to go either south or north.
FAQ AND PRACTICAL INFORMATION
If you are planning to explore the Royal Mile, you may have a few common questions. Hopefully, here are the answers:
➊ What is the best way to visit the Royal Mile? I'd say there's only one way to visit the Royal Mile, and that way is on foot! You cannot really enjoy it any other way, plus, I don't think that would be possible in any case! The Mile is easy to walk through since it's dotted with pubs, cafés, and more (check Cockburn Street if you need some rest!).
➊ Should first-timers in Edinburgh visit the Royal Mile? Yes, the Royal Mile is the beating heart of the Old Town, and by skipping it, you would be missing out! If you don't have enough time or if the weather doesn't allow you to see it all, still consider checking at least High Street and St. Giles' Cathedral!
➊ How long does it take to visit the Royal Mile? Walking down the Royal Mile at a leisurely pace and enjoying its many views might take you some 2 hours. If you plan to also stop at its main attractions, including St. Giles', consider spending a morning or afternoon there - this last option is definitely recommended!
➊ Is the Royal Mile accessible or easily visitable with kids? The Royal Mile is not an attraction but an area of Edinburgh. Therefore, it is accessible and well-paved for everyone to wander around. However, Edinburgh can be a bit up and down, and the way up to the Castle can be tiring. If you are a person with disabilities, consider starting from High Street and focusing on it during your tour. If you are traveling with kids, I'm sure they will enjoy the atmosphere of the Royal Mile, plus, there are lots of places to take quick breaks!
Royal Mile in Edinburgh: History & Walking Tour
A SHORT HISTORY OF THE ROYAL MILE IN EDINBURGH
The Basics
The Royal Mile is the heart of Edinburgh's Old Town. And when we say Old Town, we normally imagine the oldest area of a city, one filled with paved streets, medieval churches, and stone houses.
Yes, this is what you should expect from the Royal Mile. But, be aware, this doesn't mean you will walk past ancient buildings: the Old Town's dwellings are relatively new!
The area of the Old Town for a long time was all that Edinburgh was. The city was no more than a small settlement, strategic enough to stay relevant, but so threatened as never to expand. This is because, as you may know, Scotland was not part of the Kingdom of England (not a "United Kingdom" yet!) until 1707, and actually had the Brits as its more ferocious enemies.
Considering its position, Scotland was forever the target of English invasions, as it was considered the natural continuation of the southern kingdom. However, the Scots, fierce and fiery, came from a different background and persistently refused annexation until it became unavoidable.
The Royal Mile Before the Annexation (pre-1707)
The Romans did not leave a strong mark on Scotland. They came in the 1st century CE and were gone by the 5th. It's a long time, for sure, but it hit differently than in other places. Here, the Romans did not succeed in "Romanizing" the lands, and when the Anglo-Saxons first came, and the Scots later, Scotland was still wild and free at heart.
And yet, the South, closer to England, was more urbanized and slightly more Romanized. This is why Edinburgh, back in the Early Middle Ages, was already comprised of a few dwellings, right where the Old Town stands today. These constructions were nothing more than poor things made of wood, with pastures and green fields all around.
This scattered scenario of houses and fields would remain a constant for Edinburgh for the entire Middle Ages - invasions and battles would not allow for expansion. And yet, over the centuries, the buildings continued to increase in number until there was no room left, so that houses began to grow higher and became unsafe. Fires and collapses were the norm, and living there was not a dreamy experience as it may be today.
The Royal Mile After the Annexation (post-1707)
The Scots despised the idea of Annexation and did all they could to delay it. And yet, it eventually came in 1707 (with the so-called Acts of Union) and was irreversible.
For Edinburgh, this meant more safety: since Scotland's first enemy (England) was now a part of the same kingdom, battles and invasions stopped. By the end of the century, Edinburgh experienced a veritable renaissance.
Most residents, not content with the overall state of poverty and decadence of the Old Town, decided to move elsewhere, thus forming the current New Town. The Old Town was filled with immigrants from the Highlands and from Ireland, and as the population dramatically increased, the area grew dirtier and more unstable. By the mid-19th century, the situation had become unsustainable, and the city opted for an almost complete demolition of the ancient buildings. This led to the creation of a new Old Town, which now forms the Royal Mile we see today.
Thus, most of what you visit comes from the late-19th century or early 20th century, not without lots of worthy heritage spots from previous times!
MAP AND WALKING TOUR OF THE ROYAL MILE
Now that we know how the Royal Mile formed, it's definitely time to explore it!
First, here is a map with all the major attractions of the Royal Mile. We will mention them in the walking tour section, and you'll have the chance to learn more about them in the chapters below:
To navigate the map, click/tap on the button in the up left corner. Here is what the colors represent:
Green: Castlehill area of the Royal Mile
Red: Lawnmarket area of the Royal Mile
Blue: High Street area of the Royal Mile
Orange: Canongate area of the Royal Mile
Purple: Abbey Strand area of the Royal Mile
A Little Vocabulary of the Royal Mile
While exploring this guide and the map, you'll see a few names you may not recognize. These are typical of Scotland or are specifically related to religion, and you'll find them elsewhere around the country! Let's discover the most common ones:
CLOSE: The term "close" likely comes from "enclosure" and, in Edinburgh, it refers to the small and narrow passageways/alleways you'll find everywhere in the Royal Mile. They are normally named after their most prominent owner (in the past, a close "enclosed" all the properties of a wealthy family) or the most important event that happened there.
WYND: Technically, another name for a close. In fact, the word "wynd" comes from Old English and was originally used to indicate those narrow streets that linked two larger roads. It runs between houses.
KIRK AND KIRKYARD: Basically, the Scottish names for "Church" and "Churchyard". They come from an older version of English, typically spoken in this area. Everywhere around Scotland, you'll find churches named "kirk". Also, if you know a person whose surname is "Kirk" and who is not from Scotland, you can guess that their ancestors were probably Scottish immigrants.
Walking Tour of the Royal Mile
➊ Duration: 2.5 hours (+ visiting time)
➊ Total Distance: 1,80km / 1,11mi
➊ Starting Point: Edinburgh Castle
➊ Final Stop: Holyrood Palace
As you may see from the map, the Royal Mile is basically a line, and thus you may decide to start from its western end, Castlehill, or eastern end, Abbey Strand.
➜ Personally, I believe the best option to be the first, Castlehill.
Why? Because it starts from the Castle of Edinburgh, which is far more ancient than Holyrood Palace, around which Abbey Strand revolves. If the Castle represents the medieval stage of Edinburgh, Holyrood is its more modern counterpart.
➊ Start your tour with a visit to Edinburgh Castle. If you travel in high season, make sure to pre-book your tickets or opt for a guided tour. The visit will take you about 3 hours.
➊ Return to the Castle Esplanade (where you have accessed the Castle), explore it, and check the Witches' Well. If you like, visit the Princes Street Gardens, or begin your descent on Castlehill.
➊ Castlehill is relatively small but full of closes! While you walk, check the narrow alleyways you encounter, and focus on Cannonball Close, Sempill's Close, and the Hub, until Castlehill becomes Lawnmarket (total duration: 20 minutes).
➊ On Lawnmarket, the main attractions will be on your left. Make sure to check James' and Riddle Courts, then walk up to Lady Stair's Close, where you'll find the Writers' Museum. Coming back on Lawnmarket, check Gladstone's Land. When you arrive at a crossroads, Bank Street will be your last stop on Lawnmarket before it becomes High Street (total duration: 40 minutes + 1 hour visit to the Writers' Museum).
➊ High Street is the heritage-richest area of the Royal Mile! As soon as you enter it, you'll see a beautiful, airy square (Parliament Square), with a gem in it: it's St. Giles' Cathedral, definitely worth a visit! Keep one hour for the square and the cathedral.
➊ High Street is scenic; most of the pictures you may have seen of the Royal Mile were taken from here. Take your time to just explore it, and turn away from it to check all its closes (mostly on the left side) - Advocate, Roxburgh, Mary King, and Bishop are among the most popular. Check also the Writer's Court and Cockburn Street. Your last stop will be John Knox's House, which might have hosted the renowned preacher back in his time (it likely didn't), then you'll enter Canongate (total duration: 45 minutes).
➊ There are fewer closes in Canongate and more streets and mansions! For your dose of alleyways, check Old Playhouse Close and Old Toolboth Wynd, then pay a visit or simply take a moment to admire Canongate Kirk with its Kirkyard, Huntly House with its Museum of Edinburgh, and the Scottish Parliament. When you reach the latter, you are at the end of Canongate (total duration: 30 minutes + 1 hour visiting time).
➊ You are now reaching the end of the Royal Mile; Abbey Strand is the last section! Actually, this area is dominated by Holyrood Palace, which was the residence of the kings of Scotland from the 16th century onwards. Before that, the esplanade here was dominated by the Holyrood Abbey, today in ruins but amazing to see (find it behind the palace). Take your time to check Queen Mary's Bath House, and then you are done! (Total duration: 30 minutes + 2-hour visiting time).
➊ PRO TIP: From Holyrood Palace, you can continue exploring Edinburgh and reach two of its most scenic and must-see destinations: Arthur's Seat (on the right) and Calton Hill (on the left). Both are breathtaking, but Arthur's Seat requires quite a hike, whereas Calton Hill is uphill but less demanding. Also, Arthur's Seat will get you a bit farther from the Old Town, so make sure to have enough time. My suggestion would be to start from Calton Hill if you have just visited the whole Royal Mile with its attractions!
Royal Mile in Edinburgh: Landmarks and Attractions by Area
CASTLEHILL
➊ COME HERE IF YOU LOVE: Scottish History
Castlehill is the first section of the Royal Mile that you'll encounter if you start your visit from Edinburgh Castle, a choice I'd already recommended - this way, you'll begin from the most ancient spot in Edinburgh.
Castlehill is a relatively small area, mostly composed of the descent from the Castle esplanade. It's the narrowest of the Royal Mile. While you'll visit it, expect to see closes and tiny streets.
Edinburgh Castle
● Entrance Point: The Gatehouse
● Tickets: Yes, £21.50 (full ticket). Buy it online, or opt for a guided tour.
● Visit Duration: 3 hours
● Visit Recommended: Yes (8/10)
Edinburgh Castle or the city's main character!
I've visited it twice, and I loved it more on my first time. This is mostly because the second time I noticed how modern the Castle looks, something that hadn't bothered me before. Not that this detracts from its historical and architectural value, but expect to see buildings dating back to the 20th century and very polished medieval stones!
Indeed, Edinburgh Castle was once the fortress of the kings of Scotland, a fortified residence designed to protect them and the small local population from numerous English invasions. It saw several building phases, starting from the Early Middle Ages and continuing until modern times.
Sitting on a 120m/393ft high rock (what remains of a volcanic explosion), the Castle dominates the city and was used to spot and identify enemies before their arrival. In fact, despite seeing them coming, the Castle could not help but be occupied several times by the English, then retaken by the Scots.
It was last used as a fortress in 1745, then it never saw action again. After that moment, it was gradually transformed into both a landmark and a monument: inside, you'll find places like the Scottish National War Memorial, a 20th-century addition to remember the fallen of the World Wars and later conflicts.
Castle Esplanade
The Esplanade is what greets you right before you enter the Castle.
It was built in 1753 as a parade ground, and indeed, today it is where you can spot the famous Military Tattoo's main stage if you visit in summer.
While you are there, look for the Witches' Well on the east end. It's a commemorative element, built to remember the spot where some three hundred "witches" were burned between 1479 and 1722. If you linger a bit more on the Esplanade, you'll notice a Celtic cross and what resembles an obelisk: those are all colonial war memorials.
Also, from the Castle Esplanade, you can descend toward the Princes Street Gardens, which used to be a pond! Designed as a defensive measure back in the 15th century, it didn't work well, as it severely impacted the hygiene of the area. It was drained in the 19th century and turned into florid gardens.
Cannonball House Close
The close is called this way for the most obvious of the reasons: there is a cannonball, indeed!
It is lodged in the wall of a 17th-century house within the close, perhaps fired from Holyrood Palace or from the Castle back in the 18th century, during the Jacobite Revolution (a revolution that opposed the Annexation to England).
Sempill's Close
This close, named after Lord Semple (or Sempill), contains the ruins of a 1638 mansion that used to be his residence.
Part of the renovated mansion is now part of a luxury hotel, but you can still admire its architecture and have a glimpse of 17th-century urban style in Edinburgh.
The Hub
This Gothic-style building is not medieval, but comes right from the 19th century! It was part of that heavy renovation that involved the Old Town and transformed it after much of its ancient buildings were destroyed.
Originally the housing place of the General Assembly of the Church of Scotland, it was closed in 1981 and today hosts the Edinburgh International Festival.
➜ Its spire (formerly that of Tolbooth Kirk) is the highest in the city center, and just outside it, there was the Buttertron, a place where butter, cheese, and other goods were weighed to make sure they were sold at the right, approved price. This had to be turned down in 1821 so that the area could host the King, in Edinburgh for a visit, with the necessary dignity.
LAWNMARKET
➊ COME HERE IF YOU LOVE: Scottish Literature
This second section of the Royal Mile has "market" in its name, and indeed, this was the area that hosted a market - so-called "Land Market", from which the current name. Here, people would buy and sell cloth, linen, and yarn.
Lawnmarket is another section of the Mile characterized by small streets and lots of closes that you can access from the main road. In this section, you'll find most of them on your left side (if you arrive from Castlehill)!
James Court
This place may seem kinda airy if compared to others, but it was actually opened up in the 18th century - before that moment, it was dark and gloomy. The buildings also looked different, as what you see now was completed in 1727.
➜ This court is known as the home of the Scottish Enlightenment: in 1762, this is where David Hume (a Scottish philosopher and economist, especially known for his "A Treatise on Human Nature") came to live.
Riddles Court
If James Court is where David Hume came to live in 1762, Riddles Court is where he was born in 1711!
It's a double courtyard, built around 1590, which retained much of its original form. Right after it was completed, in 1593, it hosted the King of Scotland, James VI (James I for the English), during a lavish banquet.
Before you leave, note the inscription "VIVENDO DISCIMUS", which means "By living, we learn". It's placed there because here, in the late 19th century, scholar Patrick Geddes organized summer schools.
Lady Stair's Close and The Writers' Museum
● Tickets: Free entry
● Visit Duration: 1 hour
● Visit Recommended: Yes (6/10)
The more time you spend in Edinburgh, the more you'll realize how much the Scottish people love and cherish their heritage, including literature!
If you are a bookworm and pay a visit to Lady Stair's Close, you just can't walk away without checking the Writers' Museum, a little gem that celebrates the life and work of Scottish writers, especially Walter Scott, Robert Louis Stevenson, and Robert Burns. The visit is free of charge and takes place in a cozy house that once belonged to Lady Stair, the woman who built it in 1622.
Restored in 1897, it retains much of its original charm.
Makars' Court
Lawnmarket is your place to be if you love Scottish literature!
Check Makars' Court to find 44 slabs that celebrate the award-winning poets and writers of Scotland of all time! Names include, of course, Robert Louis Stevenson and Walter Scott, but also much more modern ones like Dorothy Dunnett (author of "The Game of Kings"!) and Hugh MacDiarmid.
Personally, I would have loved to see James Hogg here, as his "The Private Memoirs and Confessions of an Unjustified Sinner" is a masterpiece - too bad!
Gladstone's Land
● Tickets: Yes, £11.00 (full ticket). Pre-book yours here.
● Visit Duration: 1 hour
● Visit Recommended: No, if you are a first-timer (5/10)
Called this way because it once belonged to a wealthy burgess, Thomas Gladstone, it was built in 1550, then restored several times until the 1930s.
Today, it has been extensively readapted and refurnished, and it hosts a museum/café that explores life in Edinburgh throughout the centuries, with a focus on merchants and the wealthy bourgeoisie who lived in the house and in the area. It's a mostly immersive experience, based more on general facts than on factual history, and, considering the price, I would definitely suggest you visit it if you have kids, if it's your second+ time in Edinburgh, or if you are really interested in this specific focus - not super-relevant in terms of historical value!
HIGH STREET
➊ COME HERE IF YOU LOVE: Gothic Architecture, Victorian Architecture, Scottish History
High Street is the quintessential Royal Mile's view: the main road becomes more airy and spacious, and it is now populated with ancient-looking buildings, a majestic Gothic cathedral, and often leads to narrow closes and little streets.
If it's your first time visiting Edinburgh and the Royal Mile, this section is unmissable as it summarizes the whole Old Town's spirit: modern but full of heritage and tradition.
➜ Once you reach High Street from Lawnmarket, your first urge would be to go straight to St. Giles'. However, my suggestion would be to check a couple of spots on your left, then focus on Parliament Square and its Gothic protagonist.
Advocate's Close
Advocate's Close is a late 15th/16th-century close that used to be the residence of Sir James Stewart, Lord Advocate (meaning that he was the main legal counselor of the Scottish government). He lived in the 17th century and is known as the most prominent resident of the close, but, actually, the place was rebuilt from scratch after the original version was demolished in the late 1800s. Oliver Cromwell is said to have briefly resided here during his visits to Edinburgh.
➜ Notice the inscriptions: they are remains of the original structure, and report the initials and mottos of the residents. Also, notice the view: from Advocate's Close, you can spot the Scott Monument!
Roxburgh's Close
Parallel to Advocate's Close runs Roxburgh Close, named after a city cook, John Roxburgh. However, its most important residents came in the 18th century, when several Scottish Gaelic poets took this close as their home.
Enjoy the atmosphere, given by its narrowness, then choose your way: you can reach Cockburn Street if you walk till the end of the Close, otherwise you can go back to High Street and head towards another small close. Here, we'll opt for the second one.
Mary King's Close
● Tickets: Yes, £24.00 (full ticket). Pre-book yours here.
● Visit Duration: 1 hour
● Visit Recommended: No (3/10)
There could easily be a book about this close (maybe there is one?), as it is the protagonist of the perfect spooky story: back in 1645, when Scotland was hit by a deadly plague, people were said to have been walled up here to prevent them from spreading the disease. They died, of course, and thus their ghosts are said to still roam around, waiting for justice or simply eternal rest.
Should you expect to meet spirits at Mary King's Close? Not really, people were hardly quarantined within the city walls! However, the close was inhabited until 1904, and then it was later turned into an air-raid shelter during World War II. More recently, it became a tourist attraction, where guided tours allow visitors to discover the ups and downs of living in Edinburgh's Old Town throughout the centuries, with a focus on life during a plague.
Honestly, this is not the type of experience I would recommend: it tells an enthralling story, but it comes with a hefty fee, and it is hardly historically relevant or accurate. Better to focus on other attractions, but the close is definitely still worth a visit.
Writers' Court
The name here comes from this place having hosted the library of the Society of Writers, but it has never been strongly associated with one specific literatus.
Nevertheless, John Knox is said to have lived here between 1560 and 1566.
➜ John Knox (1513-1572) was a pivotal figure in Scottish history, the one man who brought Protestantism (declined as Calvinism) into these lands and adapted it to make it more acceptable for the local population. If you plan to wander around Scotland or to explore its history, you'll often find mention of him.
Cockburn Street
There are several ways to reach this curved street: you can access it from High Street, find it at the end of Roxburgh's Close, or take it from Warriston's Close, which begins right beside Writers' Court.
In any case, while you visit it, just know that Cockburn Street has not always been here. It's the result of the 1800s demolitions, which razed out several closes to create a more accessible space and connect it directly to High Street.
Named after judge Lord Henry Cockburn, today it is your perfect spot for a glimpse of Victorian architecture and a good break - it's filled with cafés and boutiques.
Parliament Square
This place may be called Parliament Square now, but if it hosts a Gothic cathedral, you know already that it must have a long story to tell!.
Parliament Square has been partially a cemetery for a very long time. More precisely, it hosted the nearby St. Giles' Cathedral's cemetery, as it was customary for most churches to have their own graveyard. The graveyard was removed in the 19th century, right when the entire Royal Mile was being renovated and turned into what it is today. The burials were moved to the current Greyfriars Kirkyard.
Today, what captures the attention in Parliament Square is St. Giles' Cathedral, but if you spend a minute looking around, you'll see several other points of interest, including:
The Statue of the 5th Duke of Buccleuch, a prominent Scottish politician.
The Heart of the Midlothian: A mosaic heart that is connected to the eponymous novel by Sir Walter Scott. Exactly where the heart stands today, there once was the entrance to the Old Tolbooth, a legendary medieval building and prison of Edinburgh (now disappeared), to which the novel refers.
The Statue of Sir Walter Scott: Of course, yet another reference to Sir Walter Scott, who extensively wrote about the Royal Mile in his novels, was necessary here.
John Knox Plaque: It stands right where the burial site of John Knox once stood. He was interred in St. Giles' Graveyard, and when this was dismantled, a plaque was placed to remember the exact location.
The Statue of King Charles II: The Scots initially considered erecting Oliver Cromwell's statue here, but the project ultimately failed (Cromwell notoriously assassinated Charles II during the Civil War in the 17th century). Instead, a statue of the King was erected, and is now one of the oldest of this kind in the UK.
Parliament Hall: There's a reason why this square is called Parliament Square, and the reason is this Parliament Hall. A historical building of the utmost importance (although renovated over time), this was where the Parliament of Scotland reunited before Annexation to England, and where many governmental offices are still held today.
Most of these landmarks are recent. Why? Because the square was largely destroyed during a great fire in the 18th century, then, as mentioned, mostly dismantled in the 19th century. All the medieval buildings, including what remained of the Old Tolbooth, the Luckenbooths (a row of jewelry shops), and the graveyard, disappeared, but we can still imagine what it must have looked like.
St. Giles' Cathedral
● Tickets: No, but a donation is requested (£6 suggested).
● Visit Duration: 1 hour
● Visit Recommended: Yes (9/10)
The Gothic landmark of Edinburgh is named after a 7th-century French monk, who was a well-known saint in Scotland when the cathedral was founded. In fact, a Gothic structure similar to the one we see today was erected during the 12th century, but a religious structure must have been here since the Early Middle Ages.
The Cathedral went through a tumultuous history: founded as a Catholic parish, it became Edinburgh's main church, and for this reason was chosen by John Knox as his favorite preaching place when he attempted to bring the Reformation to Scotland. We know he succeeded, and now St. Giles' belongs to the Church of Scotland.
Despite the Gothic appearance of St. Giles', what we see today is the fruit of intense restoration over the centuries, especially the two rounds that took place in the 1800s. This is easily perceivable while walking around its naves, also due to the many recent additions (plaques, burials, massive banners, etc), and yet, its fascination remains intact.
When visiting it, just feel free to explore at your own pace, but if you like, focus on a few details:
The original copy of The National Covenant (1638): A historical occurrence you may have never heard of if you are not Scottish, but a crucial one for the Scots! The National Covenant was a manifesto with which the Church of Scotland opposed the changes King Charles I of England intended to make to local worship. The Covenanters, those who signed the manifesto, became legendary as they rivaled the English throughout the 17th century.
The Monument of the 1st Marquess of Montrose: This 19th-century monument was erected to commemorate and posthumously honor a figure, James Graham, 1st Marquess of Montrose, who was a Covenanter-turned-Royalist (that is, a supporter of the English), and was brutally executed in 1650 amidst the Three Kingdoms War and the English Civil War - a momentous period for Scotland.
The Monument of the 1st Marquess of Argyll: A story worth being told. If the 1st Marquess of Montrose is ultimately remembered for his support of the English, Archibald Campbell, 1st Marquess of Argyll, is remembered as his main opponent. A 19th-century monument now honors his memory (though his remains are not interred there), after he was executed in 1661 and his head was placed on the same spike that kept his rival's head ten years earlier.
Barrie's Close
Time to leave St. Giles' and continue on the Royal Mile. If you have seen Charles II's statue and John Knox's plaque while visiting Parliament Square, go back there and head towards Barrie's Close.
Now, this is a good example of how gloomy, dark, and humid the closes must have been back in the time. This one retained its original structure, although heavy restorations were needed after some horrendous fires hit the area.
Old Fisherman's Close
Berrie's Close opens up on Old Fisherman's Close, a longer, slightly larger alleyway. This one is called this way because it once hosted a fish and poultry market (16th century onwards), and thus was mostly inhabited by lower-class people - the stink did not enthrall the high class.
This close is known for a few stories: one tells that Daniel Defoe (1660-1731, author of "Robinson Crusoe") might have lived here while he worked as a spy; another says that John High, the most popular hangman in Edinburgh, famous for his professional "methods", lived here.
Blackfriars Street
A street whose name tells a story. It was named after the friars (the black friars, normally, were the Dominicans; they wear a black robe) who had their convent founded here in the 13th century. It lasted until the Reformation came to Scotland in the 16th century.
What you see today is not what you'd have seen back in the days: this street was not a street but a wynd, and was much narrower. Here, in the 16th century, when the convent was still in place, the first printed book of Scotland was produced: it was titled "The Complaint of the Black Knight".
John Knox House
● Tickets: Yes (full ticket £7)
● Visit Duration: 1 hour
● Visit Recommended: No (3/10)
Another place I recommend you check, another visit I would not suggest.
This mansion, located at the very end of High Street, right before it becomes Canongate, was built around 1470. Then it was inhabited by a series of different people, including John Knox, the Scottish preacher we have encountered before. He is said to have lived here briefly shortly before he died in 1572: in reality, there is no way to prove that, and he likely did not, although the house was surely in place when he was in the city!
As interesting as this may sound, of the mansion John Knox saw and possibly lived in, not much remains. The original structure was heavily renovated twice, in the 19th and 20th centuries. Traces of the past remain, including carvings from the 1500s, but it's mostly a fascination.
Today, it can be nice to tour around the house and imagine what life could have been like here. However, the narration is based on fantasy or general history, and may be a good experience if you are traveling with kids!
CANONGATE
➊ COME HERE IF YOU LOVE: Victorian Architecture, Scottish History
When the road starts to slope downhill, you know you’ve reached Canongate! This part of the Royal Mile shows clear signs of recent renovations, and yet there is so much to discover.
The main road here also tends to get narrower and less busy than High Street: not every tourist reaches this area, as some deviate once they arrive at the end of High Street and decide to reach Holyrood Palace at another time or in another way.
➜ Note that the reason why Canongate looks so modern and different is that this wasn't originally a canonical part of the Old Town! It was much less populated and basically belonged to the "country".
Old Playhouse Close & St. John Street
The area immediately on your right, once you enter Canongate, now mostly belongs to the University of Edinburgh, or is associated with it.
Before you head toward the Old Moray House, take a moment to notice Old Playhouse Close, where there once was a theater, and St. John Street, once a favorite destination for the aristocracy.
Since we are getting closer to Holyrood Palace, we shall imagine that here the wealthiest families of Edinburgh wished to live in the 17th-18th century, in the hope of being as close as possible to high power.
Old Moray House
The Old Moray House, now a part of the University of Edinburgh, was born as a 17th-century mansion, which, in its complex, is still original.
First built after 1618, it represents a perfect example of Scottish urban architecture, even though the exterior has been heavily restored over time. Today, the structure incorporates buildings from different eras.
If you happen to be here, take some time to explore its courtyard, which should be easily accessible. The interior is surely the most interesting aspect, as a few rooms are still furnished and decorated. However, being now used as a university building, it may be accessed only on specific occasions.
Old Tolbooth Wynd
Now, if you focus on the left side of Canongate, you should be able to spot a church (or, better said, a kirk!). Before you go for it, take the small alley that opens up on the left - it's called Old Tolbooth Wynd.
We mentioned already that the Old Tolbooth was a legendary medieval building-turned-prison that inspired many, including Sir Walter Scott, before being demolished in the 1800s. This alley takes its name, but the thing was not located here, but rather in Parliament Square.
Take this alley to enjoy the view of a narrow, ancient-looking wynd, flanked by the stone walls that protect the nearby kirkyard from stranger eyes.
Canongate Kirk & Canongate Kirkyard
● Tickets: No
● Visit Duration: 30 minutes
● Visit Recommended: Yes (7/10)
In the past, the parish was an essential part of communal life in the city, and every area had its own. This was true for Canongate, too, which was for a long time almost "separated" from the rest of the Old Town.
In the 17th century, the people of Canongate felt that the nearby Holyrood Abbey and other kirks in the area were not sufficient for their needs and required a parish church of their own. Thus, at the end of the century, Canongate Kirk was built.
As it was customary, every parish church came with its own graveyard (kirkyard), so that the locals could have a safe place where to bury their loved ones. This is why, today, you see a church enclosed by a stone wall on its back side - that wall defines the perimeter of the Kirkyard, which was in use from the 17th until the 20th century.
The Kirk's interior is not exactly unforgettable; the church was heavily restored after it experienced a significant decline in the 19th century; it shows. The walls are whitewashed, as typical of Protestant temples, and the bright color of the pews leaves me perplexed. However, don't miss the Kirkyard: Adam Smith (1723-1790, the father of modern political economy) is buried here, among others, and the place is a corner of peace and serenity in a busy city.
Huntly House - Museum of Edinburgh
● Tickets: No
● Visit Duration: 30 minutes to 1 hour
● Visit Recommended: Yes (6/10)
If you have some time to spare during your visit to the Royal Mile, you can stop by the Museum of Edinburgh, hosted by the 16th-century mansion Huntly House.
Huntly House was built to be the urban residence of the Earls of Huntly, whose main residence was Huntly Castle located up north, in the wild Scottish lands. However, the Huntlys did not keep it for long, and at the end of the 17th century, it was already in the hands of the wealthy people of Edinburgh.
Today, after a careful renovation, Huntly House hosts a nice museum that, if not of extreme historical value, is still a good and enjoyable way to discover more about the history of the city you are visiting!
Scottish Parliament & Queensberry House
● Tickets: No
● Visit Duration: 45 minutes or more (check here for more information)
● Visit Recommended: Yes (6/10)
At the end of Canongate, right before the small roundabout that leads to Holyrood Palace, you'll see a majestic, modern building appearing on your right.
Remember Parliament Square on High Street? It hosted the first building of the Scottish Parliament, which is still in use for governmental purposes. This futurist building here on Canongate is its modern counterpart, and the main hall for the purpose.
Designed by Spanish architect Enric Miralles, it was completed in 2004, not after a good ton of controversies due to its appearance, so in contrast with the rest of the Royal Mile.
Guided tours and visits are possible at the Parliament building, and it can be a great opportunity to discover more about Scottish history and culture: as it often happens for modern architectural behemoths, they are built with a scheme that includes infinite hints at their hosting culture. These include a careful choice of plants and flowers, all indigenous to Scotland.
➜ While you explore the Parliament area, notice the white, more ancient-looking building that you should spot before the main building's courtyard. That's Queensberry House, and it has a curious story to tell. Built in the 17th century, it acquired its current name when it was bought by the 1st Duke of Queensberry in 1668. Due to its proximity to Holyrood Palace, this was considered a valuable place and was highly sought after; however, its inhabitants angered the people of Edinburgh when they contributed to the signing of the Treaty of Union in 1707, which turned Scotland into an official part of the United Kingdom. Queensberry House lost its importance as the Royal Mile declined, and it was used for various purposes, including being an asylum. Today, it is unfortunately closed, but you can take a look from the outside.
White Horse Close
One last stop before we wrap up Canongate! The reason why this close is called "White Horse" is rather obscure, and may be because here Mary, Queen of Scots, used to leave her horse when the area was a royal mew (highly unlikely), or because there once was an inn called White Horse (more likely).
Anyway, White Horse Close is a picturesque place to be, a little peaceful alleyway/courtyard with low, colorful buildings. There isn't much left in terms of history, but, as for many other places in the Royal Mile, the fascination remains untouched.
ABBEY STRAND
➊ COME HERE IF YOU LOVE: Gothic and Classical Architecture, Scottish History
If you came all the way here to Abbey Strand, the view you have in front of you now should be quite distant from the one at Castlehill, where your tour started. From narrow streets and medieval fortresses, to airy, green areas and a fascination typical of English royalty given by Holyrood Palace.
Indeed, Holyrood Palace is the protagonist of the last section of the Royal Mile, Abbey Strand. A classical palace, an ancient abbey, and a few other gems hidden in the grass are all this section is about!
Note that the name of this section itself, Abbey Strand, is linked to Holyrood Palace and its predecessor, Holyrood Abbey. In the past, every abbey used to have a few dwellings built around it, to be used as shelters for the destitutes and the travelers - the section was mostly occupied by exactly those buildings.
Holyrood Palace Complex (Palace - King's Gallery - Abbey)
● Tickets: Yes (£21-25 Palace+Abbey, £11 for the King's Gallery). Buy them here or on GetYourGuide
● Visit Duration: 2-3 hours
● Visit Recommended: Yes (7/10)
Now, if you are a Royals lover, this may be the place for you! Used as the "modern" residence of the Scottish monarchs from the 16th century onwards, Holyrood Palace is now a landmark you can visit, but also one of His Majesty Charles III's official residences in Scotland, where he resides a few days per year. Moreover, the connections with the King do not end here, as the Palace hosts one of the locations of the King's Gallery, the art collection collected and owned by the King himself.
The Palace was built in the early 1500s, still in Gothic style. This was soon changed, and the residence would take several forms throughout the centuries. Meanwhile, it hosted some of the most popular among the Scottish monarchs, including Mary, Queen of Scots, of whom you can still visit the chambers.
Just behind the main palace building is a ruin: that's Holyrood Abbey, which has been there for a much longer time. Founded in 1128, it was later incorporated within the Palace's park and was used as a parish church until the 18th century. Then, just like several other medieval buildings, it went into ruin in a moment when the Middle Ages weren't exactly at their popularity peak. Never restored, it remained a symbol of ancient spirituality and Scottish heritage, much beloved by the people of the 19th and the early 20th centuries.
➜ The name "Holyrood" was initially associated with the Abbey, and later the Palace took it from the latter. "Holyrood" would refer to the "Holy Rood", or the "Holy Wood", a solemn way to call the Holy Cross, where Jesus Christ was crucified. A relic of the Holy Cross was said to be stored here, in the Abbey. It was stolen by the English and disappeared centuries ago.
Queen Mary's Bath House
Part of the Holyrood Palace complex, but reachable without purchasing a ticket, is Queen Mary's Bath House, a place that startled me when I first saw it! Placed within the Holyrood Park, with a nearby graveyard leading to Calton Hill already visible, it is a fascinating yet rather spooky vision.
Actually, even though called "Queen Mary's Bath House", there is nothing truly certain about this name. "Queen Mary" should be referred to as its original owner, Mary, Queen of Scots (1542-1587). In reality, while visiting Scotland, you'll soon find out that the Scots really (really) love a bunch of historical figures born into their lands, and one is Mary - basically everywhere you'll find a mention of her and something that has belonged to her, but not everything will be true or proved.
This small building, erected in the 1500s, is said to have been her bathhouse. In fact, there is no proof that it has ever been used as a bathhouse, nor that Mary actually used it. It was certainly a part of the larger Palace that, and as many other similar residences across Europe, included small buildings dedicated to leisure or specific purposes.
Salisbury Crags & Calton Road
Queen Mary's Bath House wrapped up our Royal Mile tour!
However, your Edinburgh exploration definitely doesn't end here, and from Abbey Strand, there are two easy options you can choose from to move further.
Salisbury Crags: With Holyrood Palace in front of you, move right until you reach the way towards Salisbury Crags. From there, you'll be on your way to Arthur's Seat, the hill from which to look at Edinburgh in its entirety, gifted with a majestic view of both the city and the sea.
Calton Road: Right from Queen Mary's Bath House, you can easily reach Calton Road. From the Bath House, head towards the graveyard and start your ascent from there. At the end of the journey, you'll find yourself on a smaller hill, Calton Hill, nestled right on top of the Old Town, and once a place of infinite inspiration for several Scottish authors and writers we have encountered during our tour of the Royal Mile - an enchanting place.
➜ Both places are pinned on the interactive map of the Royal Mile that you can find here in this guide!
Royal Mile in Edinburgh: What To Do
ROYAL MILE: WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK
The Royal Mile may be a little touristy, but it doesn't mean you won't find options for a good, hearty Scottish-style meal! In this section, I researched and selected a few spots where you can find the perfect mix of historical heritage, tradition, good food, and coziness.
➜ I leave you here a full list of all the places, but please note that you can also find them pinned in the interactive map above, all divided by area and recognizable by their icon!
Cafés and Brunch Bars
The Edinburgh Larder (High Street): Modern Scottish cuisine; cozy and stylish location. ££
Southern Cross Café (High Street): English breakfast and modern local cuisine; cozy, small location. £
Calton View Café (High Street): Perfect for an English or modern breakfast, ideal also for a quick lunch; cozy location. ££
Restaurants and Pubs
Cannonball Restaurant & Bar (Castlehill): Nestled on Castle Hill in a beautiful location; Scottish modern cuisine. ££
Deacon Brodies Tavern (Lawnmarket): Named after a legendary Scottish burglar who lived in the 18th century, this is a historic, busy tavern where you can try local delicacies. £££
The Bow Bar (Lawnmarket): Typical wooden Scottish pub with a great beer and drinks selection, plus a few food options. ££
The Ensign Ewart (Lawnmarket): Cozy location with a long history of hosting pubs and taverns; good beer selection with a few must-have Scottish specialties. ££
The Devil's Advocate (High Street): Besides its good selection of beer and food, this place is located within a stone-walled building in a typical Scottish close. £££
Royal Mile Tavern (High Street): The quintessential Scottish tavern, where you can enjoy a refreshing beer with a hearty meal or just listen to some live music in a traditional setting. £££
Halfway House (High Street): The smallest pub you can think of! A great option to enjoy the Scottish pub tradition, and have proof that it can develop in the strangest of places! £
The Mitre Bar (High Street): Traditional yet more stylish and monumental location, cozy and curated; ample selection of beer and basic local cuisine. £££
Tolbooth Tavern (Canongate): A tavern that was established in 1820 and that takes its name from a legendary medieval prison, is definitely your perfect destination for jumping into Scottish tradition; good selection of spirits, beer, and food. £££
ROYAL MILE: WHERE TO STAY
The Royal Mile is the very heart of old Edinburgh, and I definitely see why you may wish to spend your days in the city right there, where it all started!
Staying in Edinburgh may be expensive (especially for EU or non-US standards!), and, of course, finding an accommodation right in the city center can spike up prices even more - keep that in mind! However, depending on your budget and priorities, there can be several options for the perfect mix of comfort and historicity.
Here are a few options that combine historical value (when possible), location, quality of services, and, of course, coziness and overall beauty. They are listed in descending order by price per night:
The Witchery in the Castle (5-star): Biggest classic, historic location, luxury-level budget - £900-1k per night.
The Scotsman (4-star): Located in the former headquarters of the Scotsman newspaper, this is a truly historic hotel, with a luxury-level budget. £500-700 per night.
Old Town Brewery Apartment: For your perfect Edinburgh close experience, come here! Nice and spacious apartment located right between Campbell's Close and Calton Road, amazing location, and lots of historical remains in the house. £300-400 per night.
The David Hume Residence: There's hardly a better historic location than this one, as the residence stands right in Riddles Court in Lawnmarket, where David Hume lived, and the King of Scotland briefly resided. Simple yet cozy furniture, great view. £200-350 per night.
The Riddoch Apartment: Managed by the National Trust Scotland, this apartment has an excellent view and is located in a heritage building, but has a modern touch. £250-300 per night.
Heart of the Royal Mile: Beautifully decorated apartment in a super-central location and at an affordable price, considering the overall quality. £200-250 per night.
Motel One Edinburgh-Royal (3-star): A perfect blend of design furniture, historic location, and breathtaking views of the Old Town. Great price for the quality and position. £150-250 per night.
Royal Mile Backpackers (2-star): Your balanced solution between comfort, price, and location. Positioned right at the heart of the Royal Mile, it offers basic accommodation and services that suit all budgets. £50-150 per night.
ROYAL MILE: GUIDED TOURS AND BEST ACTIVITIES
Visiting the Royal Mile at one's own pace is definitely possible, as we have seen in this guide. However, doing this with a professional guide or an experienced local can add something to your visit, and can be a good way to dive deeper into a few topics you may have found more interesting than others.
Here is a list of the best, most historically valuable activities in the Royal Mile I've found, along with a few themed ones (including kid-friendly ones!). The best deals, with a good price-offer balance, have their fees bolded:
General History & Old Town Tours
Old Town's Highlights Walking Tour - 2:30 hours - £3,50 per person
Mary Queen of Scots: Old Town Walking Tour - 1 hour (self-guided) - £7,50 per person
Edinburgh: Old Town History and Tales Walking Tour - 2 hours - £18 per person
Edinburgh History Lovers Old Town Walking Tour - 2 hours - £18 per person
Royal Mile and Edinburgh Castle Small Group Walking Tour - 2:15 hours - £50 per person
Kid-Friendly Tours
Harry Potter Magical Guided Walking Tour - 2 hours - £14 per person
Harry Potter Tour & Edinburgh Castle Visit- 4 hours - £58 per person
Thematic Tours
Underground Vaults Walking Tour - 1 hour - £22 per person
Best Historical Pub Tour - 3 hours - £29 per person
Whisky Tour and Tasting - 2 hours - £43 per person
Old Town Literary Tour - 2:30 hours - £15 per person
Medical and Surgical History of Edinburgh Walking Tour - 3-4 hours - £95 per person
➊ I also suggest you check the Tron Kirk Market, a local craft market located in one of the most suggestive views of the Royal Mile (on High Street), the former Tron Kirk, now, of course, deconsacrated. I, out of a very personal taste, don't usually like it when churches are used for the most varied purposes (that is, as shops, pubs, discos, etc). However, I know this is a common practice in many English-speaking countries, and I'm always glad to check what they did to the original structure. In this case, the final result is cute and enjoyable!
References:
A Wealth of Nations, A Royal Mile's Guide by walktheworld.co.uk..
Jan-Andrew Henderson, The Royal Mile. A Comprehensive Guide, Amberley, 2017.
Ali Ebout Edinburgh (https://www.allaboutedinburgh.co.uk/royal-mile-edinburgh).
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