Medieval Paris: A Complete Guide to Architecture, History, and the City’s Middle Age Origins
- Martina
- 3 days ago
- 36 min read
Ah, Paris in the Middle Ages! Gothic churches, elegant palaces, towers, and lots of cobbled streets - that's probably how you imagine it.
Yes, Paris was all of this, but it was also a threatened and often dangerous city, still far from becoming the luxurious capital it is today. How much of that Paris still remains? Less than what we'd like to see, more than what we may think.
Here in this guide, we will cover everything medieval you can still visit in Paris, from churches, to museums, to ruins, to quarters, and streets. You'll also find an interactive map and a step-by-step 1-day itinerary, so that you can make the most of your time spent looking for traces of the Middle Ages in the charming French capital.
In this article:
Guide to Medieval Paris: Overview
Guide to Medieval Paris: History and Architecture
Guide to Medieval Paris: Itinerary
Guide to Medieval Paris: Overview
INTRODUCTION: WHAT WAS PARIS IN THE MIDDLE AGES?
When visiting Notre-Dame or the Sainte-Chapelle, it may not seem difficult to imagine how Paris must have looked in the medieval centuries, and seeing it as a grandiose and powerful city may come naturally. This was far from reality for most of the medieval millennium!
Paris was not exactly the popular capital it is today, and struggled to emerge on the continent and in France until at least the 12th century. While some kings favored it, many didn't (like Charlemagne, as we will see). While it was located in a strategic position, not many wished to choose it as their official residence, for floods and illnesses repeatedly hit its decaying streets. The Parisian fascination was definitely still in the making, and France itself was not a stable country with defined borders during most of the Middle Ages.
Only by the end of the era, when early Modernity was knocking at Europe's doors, Paris was eventually establishing itself as the political and cultural center of the Kingdom of France. This was thanks to a few figures who invested in it, the popularity of Flamboyant Gothic, and to a fast-growing university, the Sorbonne.
These earlier centuries of marginality and unfavorable weather resulted in constant demolishing, destroying, and reconstructing. This, together with the massive urban renovation plans of the 1800s, means that, today, most of medieval Paris is gone, and that we might need to use our detective side to find clues beyond the obvious ones. Yet, once we know where to look, there is much to see!
FAQ AND PRACTICAL INFORMATION
If you are planning to explore medieval Paris, you may need a few initial pieces of information to start your tour the right way! The city is huge, and history and art are literally at every corner - focusing on a thematic itinerary means a bit of preparation and special attention. Let's see what you should know:
➊ What do we mean by "medieval Paris"? When we say "medieval Paris" here, we are basically considering what belongs to the period going from the Merovingian era (5th century CE) until the end of the Hundred Years' War (1453). Then, of course, a travel itinerary is more fluid than that, and you'll find mention of places built or completed later on. This is because their importance has roots in the Middle Ages, or they are a reflection of a previous era.
➊ What is the best way to visit medieval Paris? Oh, of course, when it comes to medieval beauty, it's always best explored on foot! However, as you can see from the map, attractions can be quite far from each other. My suggestion would be to prefer walking, but to move from area to area by metro or bus.
➊ Should first-timers in Paris focus on a medieval itinerary? It depends. Paris is a city of many souls, and focusing solely on one would be reductive, even for Middle Ages enthusiasts! If you have 2-3 days to spend in the capital, I would suggest you choose an attraction from the big ones in this guide, then add a good walking tour around one of the few medieval areas. If you have 5 or more days, you may choose to dedicate half a day or a full day exclusively to a search for medieval Paris!
➊ How long does it take to explore medieval Paris? To see everything mentioned here, it may take you several hours, if not a couple of days (with commuting, visiting time, etc). However, a full day dedicated to medieval Paris would be enough to see and understand its essentials!
➊ Are medieval-focused attractions accessible or easily visitable with kids? Most of them, yes. The major attractions in this guide, such as Notre-Dame, the Sainte-Chapelle, and Saint-Denis, are among the most culturally significant in all of Paris and often quite crowded. This means that they are usually well-equipped with ramps, additional facilities, and tools for both people with disabilities and families with kids. Other places may be less efficient, and my suggestion would be to double-check them individually before going (find a few details here in this guide). Walking areas are usually quite central, easily accessible, and enjoyable to all audiences.
➊ Should you consider a guided tour? It may be a good idea, although any tour would most likely prioritize famous and popular attractions and neglect several others (mostly for time reasons!), or include a few non-medieval ones. If you are looking for a more niche experience, consider a self-guided tour based on this article! Here are a few options you may explore:
Old Paris Walking Tour (2 hours)
Medieval Paris Private Tour (2 hours)
Paris Old Town and Latin Quarter Tour (2.5 hours)
Guide to Medieval Paris: History and Architecture
A SHORT HISTORY OF PARIS IN THE MIDDLE AGES
In the introduction, we mentioned that, back in the Middle Ages, Paris wasn't the crucial European capital it is today. Why so? Let's start from the beginning.
Pre-medieval Paris
Paris was born as a Roman town in the 1st century BCE, under the name Lutetia Parisiorum or simply Lutetia, although its origins could be traced further back in time. During the Roman Era, its strategic importance was relevant, but its role within the Empire was limited. When the imperial machine began to crumble down in the 3rd century CE, northern Gallia (ancient France), where Lutetia was located, soon fell into the hands of Germanic tribes, sieged and attacked repeatedly until Lutetia was eventually taken by the legendary figure of Clovis (466 ca. - 511 CE), the first king of the Franks and member of the Merovingian dynasty.
Merovingian Era
Clovis formerly converted himself and his people to Christianity (back then, several Germanic tribes still followed pagan cults, but were strategically converting to better blend with the peoples they were conquering). This was a huge step for Paris, and this is where our story really begins.
Under Clovis, the Paris area was chosen as the official royal residence, and this activated a construction machine: an official residence needed palaces and buildings appropriate for the role. Also, since the conversion, the Franks invested in churches and convents, thus filling the city with bell towers.
The Île de la Cité, isolated and defendable, immediately became the core of the new city. The right bank would develop at a second time, and the left bank much later. Thus, the Paris we should imagine at this point is not much more than a small village!
Carolingian Era
This initial thriving period was short-lived, though: with the fall of the Merovingians (751 CE), their successors, the Carolingians, did not follow their predecessors' lead. Charlemagne (748 - 814) was more focused on the German side of his empire, and Paris was mostly neglected. This marked the beginning of a long period of decadence for the city, and for this reason, much of the Merovingian-era works are now lost.
Having been left behind, Paris became an easy target for those who had already invaded Normandy: the Normans. In 885, Paris was besieged but never captured - the city resisted. This brought further destruction, but also marked the beginning of a new era. The Normans dealt the final blow to the Carolingians in France, who were eventually replaced by the Capetians. This latter dynasty was destined to last much longer and to bring good news to Paris, starting from Hugh Capet (941 ca. - 996), newly elected king of the Franks.
Capetian Era
Under the Capetians, who would last until 1328, Paris built most of the medieval landmarks we still see today, at least in their current form. Notre-Dame, the Sainte-Chapelle, and Saint-Denis were all built in those centuries, along with many others. And yet, the Capetians did not bring immediate benefit to Paris; the real turnover began in the 12th century with the foundation of the university, which would later be known as the Sorbonne (founded in 1150).
By 1150, Paris had had the time to recover from the previous troubled centuries, and its skyline had acquired new or newly-restored religious and civic buildings. The kings were consistently residing in Paris with only a few exceptions, and the university contributed to bringing the city to the cultural and academic spotlight in Europe. The city was slowly acquiring the official title of capital of France and was gradually expanding beyond the Île de la Cité: the right bank became the economic hub, while the left bank was occupied by the university.
The Late Middle Ages
In 1180, the figure that was destined to change the face of medieval Paris more deeply than anyone else became king: it was Philip II Augustus (1165 - 1223). With him, Paris was fortified and became a true stronghold. Also, Philip II renovated the entire city, gave it a new market, and redefined its borders and identity. From this moment onwards, its inhabitants began feeling part of a community and a capital.
The later centuries saw Paris both increasing its status and becoming the stage of internal riots. Kings like St. Louis IX (1214 - 1270) understood the city's significance and worked hard to consolidate it and the royal power over the capital. And yet, kings were often busy elsewhere, and this favored figures such as the provosts (influential governmental positions), who sometimes tried to seize higher power and become the de facto rulers. This was the case of Étienne Marcel (1305 ca. - 1358), whose story, however, didn't end well.
As the Middle Ages faded into Modernity, Paris had recovered from the horrendous Black Death (the deadliest plague of medieval times) and was a big city of some 200.000 inhabitants (huge for the time). Affected by the troubles brought by the Hundred Years' War, the conflict that involved France and England, Paris came out of it strong, nevertheless. By the 15th century, its role as capital of France was undisputable, and its destiny as one of the most momentous capitals in Europe had just begun.
KEY FIGURES OF MEDIEVAL PARIS
Before diving deeper into what is out there to visit about medieval Paris, I believe it's good to have a general idea of who shaped the city's history in those centuries and to whom we owe what we can still admire today.
Mentioning all key figures would be impossible in this context, but here are the major ones, each with one or more places you can check to discover more (note that they are not in chronological order, but rather of importance for our exploration!):
PHILIP II AUGUSTUS (1165-1223)
Philip II Augustus was king of France from 1180 until 1223, and during his reign, he proved a momentous ruler who consolidated France's military and strategic power. He is still one of the better-known and most studied kings of his period.
He was an all-around medieval sovereign and, as such, his rule was always unstable and needed to be preserved - he couldn't simply sit still on his throne. He embarked on the Crusade journey and traveled a lot across his territories, meaning that he was often away from the kingdom for long periods of time, during which the enemies of France could try their luck on the country and on its capital. This is why he invested immense resources in the renovation and reconstruction of Paris, making it a veritable fortress that could be more easily defended during his long absences.
➊ If you wish to retrace his steps and see "his Paris" with your own eyes, you can check the remains of the Wall of Philip, the largest defensive wall ever built in the city. You can also visit the Louvre, although here you'll have to use your imagination a bit more: Philip II commissioned the first Louvre, which was a massive fortress, one of the strongest points in the Parisian defensive system. Lastly, you can visit the area of Rue des Poulies, where Les Halles once stood: this was a marketplace established by Philip and one of the most important in the city.
ST. LOUIS IX (1214-1270)
King Louis IX of France, who reigned from 1226 to 1270, was a close descendant of Philip II, his grandfather. Louis is remembered as an extremely influential monarch of France, but he is best known for having been canonized, the only French king to become a saint.
If Philip II was the quintessential medieval king for his military and political efforts, Louis was the quintessential Christian ruler, and, indeed, his most notable mark on Paris is a religious building. We are referring to the Sainte-Chapelle, a breathtaking example of Gothic architecture and stained-glass window mastery.
➊ The Sainte-Chapelle, commissioned by Louis IX to host some incredibly precious relics, was to mirror the deep faith of the monarch but also to symbolize his increasing power through its richness and majesty. If you visit it today, you grasp the sense of Louis' message and the importance this place had. Visiting the Sainte-Chapelle is also a great way to understand how Paris was becoming the vital center of France: if a king chose to invest in such a work right at the heart of a city, it meant that that very city was being given great importance.
➊ READ NEXT: Complete guide to the Sainte-Chapelle in Paris
SUGER (1081 ca.-1151) and MAURICE DE SULLY (?-1196)
The reason why we are here considering two figures together is that they were linked by a common passion: that for Gothic architecture.
As you may see from their dates of death, both Suger and Maurice de Sully lived in the 12th century, an important moment in the history of Paris. Who were they? Suger was an abbot, Maurice a bishop. Suger supervised the abbey of Saint-Denis, Maurice the cathedral of Notre-Dame. They both had political influence, had close ties with the monarchy, and contributed greatly to the development and spread of the Gothic style throughout Europe, changing the continent's architectural face forever.
Suger came first, and was in charge of renovating an aging Saint-Denis that was not fit for its role of royal burial anymore. He decided to introduce the newest trends in architecture, and embraced a style that was only moving its first steps and that would later be favored by the outstanding results at Saint-Denis; Gothic, indeed. Maurice followed his lead. Impressed by Suger's new Saint-Denis, he commissioned a new, Gothic version of Notre-Dame Cathedral, which needed to keep up with the growing influence of the capital.
➊ Thanks to Suger and Maurice de Sully, today we can admire two gems of Gothic mastery, Notre-Dame and Saint-Denis. Despite the many challenges (last but not least the devastating fire at Notre-Dame), they both resisted time and are a great evidence of both clergymen's cleverness and long-sightedness.
ST. GENEVIEVE (420 ca.-510 ca. CE)
St. Genevieve is the patron saint of Paris and was revered and venerated by generations of Parisians throughout the centuries.
Why do we mention her here? She contributed greatly to the rise of Paris as a Merovingian capital, thus paving the way for the city's future centrality. When Clovis, the first king of the Franks, conquered the city, she is said to have been the one who convinced him to settle in Paris and convert to Christianity. This momentous move would change France's and Paris' destiny forever.
She lived at the dawn of the Middle Ages, and her life is partially engulfed in mystery; however, her later popularity is proof of her significance. Yet, she was not loved by Parisians, as she was originally from Nanterre, and the locals never really accepted her presence.
➊ Looking for some traces of St. Genevieve in Paris? Then you should check the marvellous church of Saint-Étienne-du-Mont! This mixed-style church contains a chapel, St. Genevieve Chapel, made in Flamboyant Gothic and full of treasures celebrating the saint. This includes a luxurious shrine with what is left of her remains: the French Revolution years weren't good to her memory, and her original tomb got destroyed on the verge of a diffuse hatred towards Christianity. What you see today was partially remade in the 19th century.
ÉTIENNE MARCEL (1305 ca.-1358)
Étienne Marcel has a statue dedicated to him right in front of the Hôtel de Ville, the town hall of Paris, and a beautiful metro station in Art Nouveau style. Why?
He was the so-called prévôt des marchands, a sort of keeper of the capital during the king's absence, and in 1358 he tried to take control of the city.
Marcel was a son of his time: deeply intertwined in the political life of the 14th century, he was born wealthy and powerful. He later tried to exploit the masses of the poor to gain consensus and take control of Paris while the monarch was busy dealing with the Hundred Years' War. His attempt wasn't successful - in 1358, he lost the backing of the Parisian aristocracy, and in the end, he was murdered. However, he managed to ignite a veritable civil war and to give voice to a distress toward the monarchy and the societal system that was felt strongly within the masses.
Today, he is mostly remembered in light of the controversial relationship that France has with its monarchical past: despite not having the purest intentions, Marcel openly challenged the monarchy and dreamt of a different destiny for Paris and for France.
➊ Marcel didn't found or renovate any place, but you can still find traces of him around the city. His statue, of course, that in front of Hôtel de Ville. Then the former Palais de la Cité (City Palace), today no more, but still visitable in its current form, the Palais de Justice (Palace of Justice) with the Conciergerie. This is where he was most active. You cannot visit the place where he was born, Rue de la Draperie, because it doesn't exist anymore, but you can stroll around the area of Rue de Lutèce in Île de la Cité to imagine the Paris where he lived.
UNDERSTANDING PARISIAN MEDIEVAL ARCHITECTURE
This is certainly not the place for a detailed guide about medieval architecture, but a quick overview may be useful for you to understand what you'll be looking at!
Medieval architecture evolved greatly throughout the medieval millennium, and France developed its own nuances of it. As for any other style, Romanesque and Gothic in France were not the same as in Italy or Germany, although they followed common rules. Also, civic, non-official architecture often went on its own path and was highly dependent on the local availability of resources. Here, it will be enough to mention the two main styles you'll likely encounter in Paris, considering the centuries of renovations and stratification in between:
ROMANESQUE ARCHITECTURE (950-1150 ca.): This style emerged to match the hieratic solemnity of spirituality and today is mostly found in churches. It is characterized by bulky structures with small windows, simple façades, and a predominance of stone and gloomy light. ➜ Not much from this epoch remains, as many buildings were remade to keep up with new trends such as Gothic; yet a few noteworthy examples are still visible. These include the Abbey of Saint-Germain-des-Prés and Saint-Pierre de Montmartre (see gallery).
GOTHIC ARCHITECTURE (1150-1500 ca.): Gothic emerged as innovations in architecture continued to flow in. Romanesque was, indeed, a mirror of the degree of engineering knowledge of the time, and as soon as this latter developed, buildings grew higher and bigger. After centuries of short and rather dark buildings, a desire for light and lightness exploded. This is why Gothic is all tall and white cathedrals, immense walls of colorful stained-glass windows, and a few lightweight columns. Over time, primordial Gothic evolved into Flamboyant Gothic and other forms, but its stylistic mainstays remained. ➜ From Notre-Dame to Saint-Denis, from the Sainte-Chapelle to the Conciergerie, from the Tour Jean Sans Peur to the Hôtel de Cluny, many examples can be found around the city. Since much of what still stands today dates back to Philip II Augustus' reign (1180-1223) and later, Gothic architecture is the absolute protagonist of both religious and civic architecture in medieval Paris.
Guide to Medieval Paris: Itinerary
MAP AND 1-DAY ITINERARY THROUGH MEDIEVAL PARIS
To explore medieval Paris, let's check the map I've prepared for you: red is for religious buildings, yellow for civic architecture/museums, green for walking areas. You can use it as a reference for the itinerary you'll find below, or for your self-guided tour!
➜ If you wish to see the full list of attractions included, click/tap on the button in the top left corner.
As you may notice, most attractions revolve around Île de la Cité and the two river banks, with a few noticeable exceptions. This is a reflection of the ancient urban structure of the city and its limited dimensions. Most of what is now located further from the Île de la Cité stood outside the main city borders and was part of the "countryside". Most country areas needed their local religious reference points or were directly controlled by monks and their abbeys (like Saint-Denis).
Medieval Paris: Step by Step 1-Day Itinerary
Medieval Paris in one day, is it possible? With some tricks, you can have a good taste of it!
STEP 1 Start your tour at Île de la Cité. Begin with a visit to the Sainte-Chapelle and the Conciergerie, then head to Notre-Dame. These are unmissable stops that will take you an entire morning.
STEP 2 Take Pont Saint-Michel or the metro towards Saint-Michel Notre-Dame to cross the Seine and reach the Latin Quarter. Explore the district, try to imagine how lively this area could have been during the Middle Ages when it was bursting with university students, then visit the Museé de Cluny or walk around to reach Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre and Saint-Étienne-du-Mont.
STEP 3 At this point, you have two choices. To end your tour, you may decide to visit Saint-Denis or take the metro again to Hôtel de Ville, reach the Marais district, and check a few more gems there.
➜ If you opt for Saint-Denis, this would be 100% worth it, as the church is a rare treasure; however, it'll take you some time to get there. Check below for more information on how to reach it, but prepare to spend at least 40/50 minutes on the metro/bus. Also, check opening hours before going (it normally closes at 6:15PM).
➜ If you go for the Marais area, you'll still have plenty to see. From Hôtel de Ville station, go towards the Cloister des Billettes, then check Saint-Gervais-et-Saint-Protais. Walk around Rue François Miron until you reach one of the surviving portions of the Wall of Philip II Augustus on Rue de Jouy.
TOP 5 MEDIEVAL SIGHTS IN PARIS
There's no doubt that checking and discovering every single corner of medieval Paris would be great! But if you have limited time or don't know where to start, a few spots are simply unmissable. They may sound cliché, but in fact, there's often a reason why some places receive more attention than others. In this case, prepare to find some true masterpieces!
1. Cathedral of Notre-Dame
● Where: Île de la Cité
● Tickets: Free (but reserve your spot)
● Opening Hours: Mon-Fri 7:50AM - 7PM / Sat-Sun 8:15AM-7:30PM
● Visit Duration: 1 hour
● Architectural Style: Gothic
Yep, this definitely sounds cliché, but not mentioning it here wouldn't make sense! Notre-Dame is a symbol of Paris, known by more or less everyone around the world also thanks to works like Hugo's The Hunchback of Notre-Dame.
Notre-Dame's history is long and complex. Built in the 1160s on the site of a previous church, Notre-Dame was commissioned by Bishop Maurice de Sully. The bishop's intention was to give Paris a cathedral worthy of this name and one that would compete with other major Gothic landmarks around Europe. He also wished the episcopal power to have a reference point that could keep up with the ambitions of the bishops.
Sully's project was monumental and lasted way after his own death: in the late 13th century, Notre-Dame was eventually completed and became an emblem of Gothic architecture. After that, it was often retouched, then heavily restored in the 17th century. During the Revolution years, it suffered greatly due to a disdain towards Christianity, and the 1800s saw important work being undertaken.
Its majesty always survived any challenge of time, including the 2019 fire that destroyed parts of it and much of its precious wooden structure. Today, it is once again open and ready to welcome you as a symbol of Paris and all of France. I don't particularly like the latest renovation choice made in these last troubled years, but its original fascination remained!
2. Sainte-Chapelle
● Where: Île de la Cité
● Tickets: Full price, €19 (official website - GetYourGuide)
● Opening Hours: Daily 9AM-6:30PM
● Visit Duration: 1 hour
● Architectural Style: Gothic
Another spot that may seem banal, but is actually a must-see when in Paris. Yes, even if you are not that into medieval architecture, you won't regret visiting this place, as it is one of the most stunning shrines you'll see in Europe.
Built in the mid-13th century, the Sainte-Chapelle was commissioned by King Louis IX the Saint to host a few ultra-precious relics he had collected after the famed Siege of Constantinople that saw Christians invading Christians in 1204. Back in Louis' time, a monarch was supposed to possess some of these invaluable items, as owning them was not only a sign of faith, but of power as well.
To show his wealth, Louis made sure to build the most stunning chapel, which was to be seen by the royal family and their guests only - no need to share the beauty with the masses, it wasn't part of the plan. With an impressive set of stained-glass windows and a showing off of Gothic mastery, the Sainte-Chapelle today is partially the fruit of restorations, but its majesty remains intact.
➊ Wish to know the full story? Check this complete guide to the Sainte-Chapelle!
3. Saint-Denis
● Where: Saint-Denis
● Tickets: Full price, €11 (official website - GetYourGuide)
● Opening Hours: Mon-Sat 10AM-6:15PM / Sun 12PM-6:15PM
● Visit Duration: 1 hour
● Architectural Style: Gothic
Saint-Denis is highly popular among historians and fans of medieval art, but is usually less known by tourists in Paris. This doesn't mean that you'll find it empty, but surely less crowded than the Sainte-Chapelle, which is good!
Located far away from the city center (remember this if you plan to visit!), Saint-Denis was nothing less than the royal burial site for centuries, the place where kings and queens were laid to rest in beautifully carved tombs you can still see today. Considered the first all-around Gothic work ever made, Saint-Denis is probably the quintessential place in Paris where to feel the medieval spirit.
Commissioned in its current form by Abbot Suger in the 12th century, Saint-Denis today is a white shrine covered in colorful stained-glass windows, with elegant forms quietly hosting masterpieces of sculpture and carved art - the final resting places of the monarchs. Despite a tumultuous profanation during the French Revolution and a naive restoration in the 19th century, Saint-Denis today stands among the great cathedrals of France and is certainly worth a visit!
4. Museé de Cluny
● Where: Latin Quarter
● Tickets: Full price, €12 (official website)
● Opening Hours: Tue-Sun 9:30AM-5:45PM / Closed on Mondays
● Visit Duration: 2 hours
● Collection: Medieval Art
This place may trick you: its name recalls another French city, Cluny, which is famous right for its medieval past. Yet, this interesting museum takes its name from its unique location, the Hôtel de Cluny, a 15th-century building that is perfect for the purpose!
Indeed, the Hôtel was named after its occupants, the abbots of Cluny, who were visiting Paris more and more often in the Late Middle Ages; however, the museum today hosts a collection of medieval art that gathered pieces from all around Paris, including the Sainte-Chapelle, Notre-Dame, Saint-Germain-des-Prés, and many more.
Through what could be saved from the entire medieval world, the museum tells the story of the Middle Ages, revealing all aspects of daily life and art. An amazing visit that is worth your time and the ticket price!
5. Saint-Étienne-du-Mont
● Where: Latin Quarter
● Tickets: Free entry
● Opening Hours: Mon 2:30-7:30PM / Tue-Fri 8:30AM-7:30PM / Sat-Sun 8AM-8PM
● Visit Duration: 1 hour
● Architectural Style: Gothic / Renaissance / Neo-Gothic
Have you ever heard of Saint-Étienne-du-Mont? During my first time in Paris, I hadn't. I'm not sure why not, but probably because Paris is so full of wonders, some just slip from our sight. Anyway, if you are up for a medieval tour of the capital, you cannot miss this church!
This church is called "St. Stephen of the Mount" but, in fact, is all about St. Genevieve, the patron saint of Paris, and Clovis, the Merovingian king. Built for the first time under Clovis, indeed, this stunning place became the burial site of the Merovingian dynasty, and hosted the remains of St. Genevieve. Then, after partially losing its importance to other major sites, it still retained its significance, and in the 15th century, it was fully remade to align with the new standards.
Today, what you can admire is a building that embodies several architectural styles, all in their French form. Flamboyant Gothic and Renaissance dialogue in perfect harmony here, mirror of a period (the late 15th century) where the two styles were blending and a transition towards Renaissant forms was on the way. Then, a lot of what you see in this church may look Gothic to you, but it is actually a reconstruction: this is especially visible in the highlight part of St-Étienne, the Chapel of St. Genevieve. Harshly damaged during the Revolution, this portion was almost fully reconstructed in the 19th century.
Why choose a church that was so deeply modified over the centuries? Because it may give you a real taste of medieval Paris, medieval architecture, and medieval spirituality - but also of the many vicissitudes these landmarks went through over the centuries, and how much they endured to be still here for us to see. Also, it's an invitation to discover the rich and eventful history of this church, which enjoyed great prestige over the centuries and thus was the stage of some interesting events!
GOTHIC MAJESTY: CHURCHES AND ABBEYS
Time to continue our tour of medieval Paris! When it comes to the Middle Ages, it's no stereotype saying that religiosity was a thing, because it was. Therefore, it's easy to find a church-punctuated itinerary, and so it's the case here.
We went through a few must-see religious buildings: Notre-Dame, Saint-Denis, Saint-Étienne-du-Mont... now it's time to explore the others!
1. Saint-Germain-des-Prés
● Where: Saint-Germain-des-Prés
● Tickets: Free entry
● Opening Hours: Tue-Fri 7:30AM-8PM / Sat 8:30AM-8PM / Sun-Mon 9:30AM-8PM
● Visit Duration: half an hour
● Architectural Style: Gothic / Neo-Gothic
This abbey recalls a location "within fields" (des Prés), and yet you'll find it at the very heart of Paris, near the Latin Quarter - that's the magic of the Middle Ages. Indeed, when this church was first founded, Paris hardly went further Île de la Cité. Today, this place is a rare encounter in an area that has mostly lost its ancient characteristics.
Saint-Germain-des-Prés is a nice Gothic-looking church with several later additions, including signs of heavy neo-Gothic restorations, which had been necessary after a harsh Revolution-era profanation and some other vicissitudes. With a foundation that goes back to the Merovingian era and a rich history, the church definitely deserves a visit, although much of what you'll see actually comes from the 19th century, and the interior is honestly a bit too bright and colorful sometimes (at least for my tastes).
The bell tower and the exterior alone make the visit, as the bell tower is one of the most ancient in France, and there are some interesting 12th-century decorations to spot all around. Inside, take special attention to the chapels, the deambulatory, and the stained-glass windows, which are sometimes original (13th century).
2. Saint-Gervais
● Where: Le Marais
● Tickets: Free entry
● Opening Hours: Mon-Fri 6AM-8PM / Sat 7AM-8PM / Sun 7:30AM-8PM
● Visit Duration: half an hour
● Architectural Style: Gothic / Baroque
Come here for Baroque, stay for Gothic. This church has an exquisite Baroque façade and a white and bright Gothic interior. A cool blend that is definitely worth a visit, yet another example of the long history that medieval Paris endured.
The foundation of this church is remote, but its actual growth only occurred when this area was enclosed within Philip II Augustus' wall. This is when a Gothic version emerged, even though the current version was begun in the late 15th century. This late construction explains the mixture of style and the Baroque additions, the last ones arrived in the late 17th century.
As always, the church suffered greatly during the Revolution, and even more greatly during WWII, when it was bombed. Today, you can still admire a beautiful white vaulted ceiling in perfect late Gothic style, blessed by an amazing set of stained-glass windows. Inside the main chapels, there are plenty of decorations coming from the 16th and 17th centuries.
3. Saint-Pierre de Montmartre
● Where: Montmartre
● Tickets: Full ticket €5
● Opening Hours: Tue-Fri 9AM-6PM / Sat 10AM-7PM / Sun 9:30AM-6PM / Closed on Mondays
● Visit Duration: half an hour
● Architectural Style: Romanesque / Gothic
When you think of Montmartre, the first image that comes to your mind is likely the view of the Basilica of Sacré Coeur, an iconic landmark of Paris that however has little to do with the Middle Ages. If you wish to find your medieval spot in the area, Saint-Pierre de Montmartre is your place to go!
This little church (especially if compared with the Basilica) has remote origins and was first used by the Merovingians as a cemetery and temple. Then, its role evolved and was rebuilt in Romanesque style when the time was ripe (early 12th century). Saint-Pierre enjoyed relative influence later, until in the 17th century its structure was old and damaged, and scarcely used. When the Revolution came, as usual, it brought great despair and destruction, and the early 19th century saw the poor church being used as a communication base and as military barracks.
After an intense restoration, today we are still lucky enough to recognize the overall Romanesque structure with later Gothic additions, to find original decorations (check the pillars and capitals) in the apse and choir area, and to visit a few charming chapels. Definitely worth a visit while you explore Montmartre.
4. Saint-Séverin
● Where: Latin Quarter
● Tickets: Free entry
● Opening Hours: Mon-Sat 9:30AM-7:30PM / Sun 9AM-8PM
● Visit Duration: half an hour
● Architectural Style: Gothic
This is an example of a medieval church with a more recent form. And also of the long-standingness of Gothic style, which, unlike other areas like Italy, was still largely used way after its heyday.
Saint-Séverin is, as usual, a church with a long history and a rather restored form. Founded back in Merovingian times, it was massively rebuilt in the 13th century but then needed reconstruction several times, including in the 16th, 17th, and 19th centuries. After an ever-present devastation during the Revolution and a heavy neo-Gothic revival, the church today still retains much of the original fascination.
If you visit it, stop to notice the exterior first, which is still pretty much like it would have been back in the 13th-15th centuries. Then the gardens and cloister, where a few remains of a former cemetery are still visible. Inside, admire the Gothic vaulted ceiling, with a few portions still dating back to the 13th century. In the choir, beautiful stained-glass windows from various epochs await you.
5. Cloister des Billettes
● Where: 4th Arrondissement
● Tickets: Free entry
● Opening Hours: Opening hours may differ according to exhibition schedules
● Visit Duration: half an hour
● Architectural Style: Gothic
Now, a different view. Here, we are discovering a true gem, a preserved cloister from the early 15th century, a rarity for Paris.
When you come to visit the cloister, you are stepping into a Lutheran church, which obviously wasn't Lutheran when it was first built (Protestantism only appeared in the 16th century). The first church was actually a chapel, which became pretty famous due to a few legends revolving around its history. Since a miracle was said to have occurred on the site, the chapel was built to celebrate it, and pilgrims began to flow in. It kept its role until later on, and in the 18th century, it needed a massive reconstruction. After the Revolution, it was suppressed and became a Lutheran parish.
Today, the church itself is often closed, and medieval signs are pretty much gone; however, the cloister, the only medieval portion still standing, is normally open and free to enter, with small exhibitions going on in its venues. You can actually enjoy both the medieval charm and some good examples of contemporary art all in one!
More Churches to See
Now that we have covered the most significant medieval religious buildings you can check in Paris, I still wish to leave you a quick list of other interesting places you can check, with a brief description.
➜ You can check all these places on the interactive map above to see if some happen to be near you!
Saint-Leu-Saint-Gilles: 14th-century austere Gothic church with a few interesting chapels to check, including that hosting the reliquary of Saint Helena, with the remains of Helena, mother of Roman Emperor Constantine.
Saint-Germain-l'Auxerrois: At only a few meters from the Louvre lies this church, which used to be a favored resting place for prestigious figures gravitating around the royal court. Today, despite the renovations, it looks like a late-Gothic building with the usual vaulted ceiling and some interesting stained-glass windows.
Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre: This little gem is found in the Latin Quarter, and its bulky structure makes it clear that it was built when Romanesque was still transitioning to Gothic. Explore it attentively to find several ancient relics, and notice the original remaining portions on the exterior.
Saint-Médard: A small church with a long history in the 5th arrondissement, Saint-Médard is where you can explore a Gothic building while checking the several works of art it contains. It lies in a charming little square that is worth a stroll around in itself.
Saint-Merry: In the very central area of Centre Pompidou, there is this church, which presents a blending of several styles, including Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque. Expect to find a very Gothic building with later additions everywhere, and a structure that may remind you of Notre-Dame.
Saint-Nicolas et Saint-Martin des-Champs: In an area that was definitely way outside the city borders (and, in fact, "des Champs" indicates that), today you can find two churches at close distance, as part of the huge National Conservatory of Arts and Crafts. Saint-Nicolas is still a nice-looking Gothic church, whereas Saint-Martin now hosts the Museum of Arts and Crafts. Both great spots if you are in the area.
Saint-Eustache: One last Gothic spot for our tour! This large church is actually recent, for despite its location being quite ancient, it was rebuilt in the mid-17th century to host a bigger congregation. Thus, despite looking Gothic, it contains several details from other epochs. When here, acknowledge where you are: you are standing right where Les Halles, the major market established by King Philip II Augustus, once stood.
CIVIC PARIS: WALLS, CASTLES, TOWERS
Churches were a common sight in medieval cities, and thus we mentioned many here. Yet, any city was also bursting with other constructions, including castles, mansions, towers, and defensive structures. However, while churches held a deeper meaning and a location once occupied by a temple could hardly be used for other purposes, this wasn't the case for civic buildings, which were more often substituted.
Despite this, there are still tons of places you can check in Paris that can bring you back to the Middle Ages! Let's see a few:
1. Palais de Justice & Conciergerie
● Where: Île de la Cité
● Tickets: Full ticket, €13 (official website - GetYourGuide, with Sainte-Chapelle)
● Opening Hours: Mon-Sun 9:30AM-6PM
● Visit Duration: 1-2 hour(s)
● Architectural Style: Gothic
When it comes to the Middle Ages, if it's in Île de la Cité, it's usually of the utmost importance, as this was the first occupied area. And indeed, the Palais de Justice with its Conciergerie now stands where once stood the Palais de la Cité, or the very residence of the French kings, way before the Louvre or the Palais de Versailles were used for this purpose.
For our tour, the Conciergerie is actually the focal point, as the Palais de Justice as a whole comes from a later epoch and is not freely visitable. The Conciergerie, on the contrary, is worth a thorough visit, which is normally done together with the Sainte-Chapelle.
The Conciergerie is the last and only remaining portion of the Palais de la Cité, and thus the only remaining medieval portion of today's Palais de Justice. It was built in the 13th century, and its name comes from the concierge, the person who was in charge of keeping this place.
A perfectly Gothic vaulted structure once used for administrative and governmental duties and often visited by the kings, the Conciergerie became a prison in the 14th century, after the riots organized by Étienne Marcel made it clear that the place wasn't safe enough for the royals to use it. It was then mostly known as a prison, especially after it hosted the French Queen Marie Antoinette (1755-1793), its most famous guest.
2. Tour Jean-sans-Peur
● Where: II Arrondissement
● Tickets: Full ticket, €6
● Opening Hours: Open on Wed-Thur-Sat-Sun only, 1:30-6PM
● Visit Duration: half an hour
● Architectural Style: Gothic
And now we are off to something different. This tower is called "of John the Fearless", and it's a typical example of residential-defensive architecture.
Today, you see a tower, but originally, it was a full mansion, the Hôtel de Bourgogne. John the Fearless (Jean sans Peur, 1371-1419) was part of this wealthy family of Bourgogne, and had much power in Paris, so much that he ended up upsetting some and had to make sure his residence was safe enough to protect him. This is why the bedchambers, the rooms where the lord was most vulnerable, were located in a tower (this one you are visiting).
During your visit to this interesting spot, expect to see reconstructed spaces that recall the original purpose of the tower, as well as some beautifully-carved vaulted ceilings in pure late Gothic style. Flowery and leafy decorations await you. When you get off, search for a portion of the Wall of Philip II, located nearby.
3. Wall of Philip II Augustus
● Where: Location I, Location II
● Tickets: Free entry
● Opening Hours: Always accessible
● Visit Duration: half an hour
● Architectural Style: Civic architecture
Yes, a portion of a nondescript ruined wall in the middle of a busy capital city may not seem like the most interesting place to be, but it can make much sense to pay it a visit!
If you are walking around Le Marais or the Latin Quarter, try checking out the two locations I pinned on the interactive map and I included here above - this two portions of Philip II Augustus are quite distant from each other and give you good sense of how extended Paris had got in the late 12th century, when King Philip II ordered the wall's contruction. From the tiny village it was during the Merovingian era, when it only occupied the Île de la Cité, Paris had grown enormously and was now becoming a veritable capital.
This wall belongs to an era when Paris was actually threatened by external enemies and could be besieged or even conquered by France's rivals, especially England. This is why, with the construction of such a thick and massive wall, Philip II made it impenetrable and safe, allowing the development of a lively and flourishing community.
4. Château de Vincennes
● Where: Vincennes
● Tickets: Full ticket, €13 (official website - GetYourGuide)
● Opening Hours: Open every day 10AM-6PM
● Visit Duration: 2 hours
● Architectural Style: Gothic
If you are staying in Paris for more than a few days, or if it's not your first time in the capital, you may consider a semi-day trip beyond the usual one to Versailles and perhaps visit this incredible place, the Château de Vincennes.
A veritable fortress, this castle is located slightly outside Paris and is an absolute gem any Middle Ages enthusiast will love! Built in the 15th century (and beyond) on the site of previous similar constructions (started small, then evolved), this castle was one of the residences of the kings and queens of France, where a few monarchs actually were born and died.
After a long renovation that was concluded only some 15 years ago, the Château de Vincennes today is mostly empty, allowing you to fully grasp the power of its Flamboyant Gothic architecture. Also, it includes its own Sainte-Chapelle (typical of all royal residences, like the Palais de la Cité in Paris), built for the monarchs and today a stunning example of Flamboyant Gothic fully illuminated through its stained-glass windows.
More Civic Architecture to See
We went through the major civic/residential places in Paris that can bring you back to the Middle Ages; however, there are many more you can still discover! Below you'll find a quick list of the most significant.
➜ You can check all these places on the interactive map above to see if some happen to be near you!
House of Nicolas Flamel: Not really a place you can visit - unless you plan to dig deep into your wallet - but certainly a place you can check! This 15th-century house, now a haute-cuisine restaurant, once belonged to a wealthy member of the Parisian bourgeoisie, Nicolas Flamel. He commissioned it after the death of his wife in 1397 to accommodate the homeless, quite a common devotional move at the time. He never lived there, but it's still one of the oldest surviving houses in Paris.
Hôtel de Sens: Right in the heart of Le Marais is this 16th-century mansion, once the residence of the archbishops of Sens. Before 1622, Paris wasn't an archdiocese but merely a suffragan of that of Sens, so a first mansion was built here in 1345 to host the archbishops during their frequent visits. It was then used by the monarchs, then rebuilt in the current version in the 16th century, keeping its original Gothic style.
Collège des Bernardins: If you are into medieval architecture AND classical music, this may be the right place for you. Today, this Collège hosts concerts, but it was the first location of the newly-founded university of Paris back in the 13th century when it was built. Its name comes from its first occupants, the Cistercian monks, who hosted the first lectures.
Maison d'Ourscamp: This place was originally built in the 13th century, although it was rebuilt in the 1580s and split into three different buildings. It was the urban residence of the Cistercian monks of Notre-Dame d'Ourscamp in France, from which its name. Today, it hosts the headquarters of the cultural association "Paris Historique" and is a perfect spot to visit if you like medieval-ish houses.
Couvent des Cordelières: If you check this place today, what you see are mostly vestiges of a former Gothic 13th-century structure. However, there is so much history held here that it may surprise you! The convent's name comes from the Conventuals, a specific rank of the Franciscan monks that in France were called, indeed, "Cordeliers". This used to be their residence but during the Revolution, the place was nationalized and became the meeting point of the famous Club of the Cordeliers, the political club first established by Georges Danton in 1790.
Crypte Archéologique de l'İle de la Cité: We have said many times that anything medieval found in İle de la Cité is likely ancient and historically significant. In this museum (actually an archeological crypt), you can discover the most remote roots of Paris, starting from the Gallo-Roman settlements and reaching the Middle Ages with some remains of civic and religious buildings, likely dating back to the very dawn of the medieval occupation of the area.
WALKING IN MEDIEVAL PARIS
What better way to end our tour than with a stroll around the streets of Paris that still retain their medieval fascination? Before starting, it's important to mention that Paris has obviously changed enormously since the Middle Ages, and that its urban structure naturally evolved over the centuries. However, the most striking and invasive changes occurred in the 19th century, organized by Georges-Eugène Haussmann (1809-1891), a baron who carried out a gigantic program of urban renewal that mostly dismantled the old medieval districts.
By then, the oldest streets of Paris were surely decaying at times, and could have benefited from a renovation; however, such an impactful program was the mirror of the 1800s and the widespread fascination for large boulevards and airy celebrative squares. All major European capitals were interested in this phenomenon, and Paris was one of the most affected.
Despite these momentous changes, there are still a few places you can explore, so let's see them all!
1. Latin Quarter
The Latin Quarter, or the 5th arrondissement, is located on the left bank of the Seine and is the first stop you should consider in your walking itinerary through medieval Paris.
While it doesn't look exactly like in the Middle Ages, this quarter is renowned for its narrow, cobbled streets, and for a structure that reminds us of remote times. This area was where the Sorbonne University flourished after its foundation in the 12th century, and here is where the very first study locations emerged, the first being the Collège des Bernardins. Its role as a university hub is also hinted at by its name: the term "Latin" was given to this area to indicate that people spoke mostly Latin, the official language of higher studies.
Paradoxically, the left bank was occupied much later than the Île-de-la-Cité and the right bank, and yet, today it is the most culturally significant in terms of the medieval era. Stroll around the quarter to see Gothic churches, many of which we have mentioned, the Musée de Cluny, and some good examples of civic architecture.
2. Rue Chanoinesse
Rue Chanoinesse is a street you shouldn't miss if going for a tour of medieval Paris! Besides its undisputable charm and its enviable location just behind the Notre-Dame Cathedral, this street holds a few interesting secrets.
Considering the proximity of the cathedral, here once lived the canons, clergymen in charge of keeping and administering Notre-Dame. Here they lived and often died, and today, at number 26, you can take a look at some of their burial stones.
In the 18th and 19th centuries, Paris was intensely renovated, and after the Revolution, several churches in the area were demolished. This was when the old quarter, once occupied by the canons, disappeared, and the burial stones were placed where they are now. Also, along the street are several plaques and references that may help you understand the rich history of this location.
3. Rue François Miron
Half-timbered houses in Paris? Yes, in Rue François Miron!
This street was formed in the 1860s by unifying two former streets. It takes its name from François Miron, provost of the merchants of Paris from 1604 to 1609, who is said to have lived in the area.
Its current form is only the last tile in a long and complex history, which began in Roman times, when this street was occupied by a Roman road. Later, it became a Roman/Merovingian necropolis. Today, it hosts a few half-timbered houses that, despite not being purely medieval (they were built later, in the 16th century), are still a nice representation of an ancient residential architecture style that matches our tour perfectly.
Come here to check the Maison d'Ourscamp, one of the last remaining examples of residential medieval architecture in Paris.
4. Rue de l'Ave Maria
Rue de l'Ave Maria, a street with a fascinating name that immediately takes us back to ancient times.
Indeed, this street takes its current denomination (it was originally named Rue des Barres, as you can see written on an old stony plaque) from a former convent, abolished, as usual, in 1790 during the Revolution. But its history is far more remote, and from here once passed the Wall of Philip II Augustus, which ruins you can still spot at number 15.
At number 22, you can go and imagine the old convent that once stood exactly there.
5. Place Joachim-du-Bellay
Place Joachim-du-Bellay is the keeper of a story you may not imagine when you first come here.
When you reach this charming square, you are stepping onto a former cemetery, in use from the Middle Ages until the 18th century. This cemetery, called Cemetery of the Innocents for the Church of the Innocents once located nearby, was primarily used for mass graves. Mass graves were common during pandemics and other dramatic occurrences.
During its long history, the Cemetery was famed for its wretched and dreadful conditions, the consequence of quick and badly executed burials, typical of mass graves. The poor hygienic conditions led to its dismissal in the 18th century, when the church associated with it and dedicated to funeral services was also dismissed. Today, all that remains is the Fountain of the Innocents, which you can find right at the center of the square - once used for funeral purposes, it's one of the most ancient fountains of Paris, having been built in the 16th century.
6. Rue Clovis
It's easy to figure out a medieval past for a street called "Clovis", the name of the first king of the Franks, head of the Merovingian dynasty.
Right at the borders of the Latin Quarter, this street today doesn't look properly medieval, but is again the keeper of a rich history and was once the location of some of the most influential religious buildings of the city.
Today, come here to visit Saint-Étienne-du-Mont, one of the most significant medieval churches in Paris, and come here also to spot yet another portion of the Wall of Philip II Augustus, which at this point signaled the farthest south end of the medieval capital. Check the whole street for portions of ancient buildings, bas-reliefs, and all the historical hints you can find!
References:
Joan DeJean, How Paris Became Paris: The Invention of the Modern City, Bloomsbury, 2015.
Éric Hazan, The Invention of Paris: A History in Footsteps, Verso Books, 2011.
Alistair Horne, The Seven Ages of Paris, Vintage 2004.
Hélène Rocco, Enchanting Paris: The Hedonist's Guide, Harper, 2023.